1. Sew inserts and coquettes Preparation of decorations and connection to details

2 – LECTURE
Sewing small details of women's and men's shirts
PLAN:
1. Sew inserts and coquettes
2. Preparation of decorations and connection to details
3. Sewing a belt and cleats
Basic word phrases: collar, board, cover, pocket, decorative details, board fold, vitochka, insert, kaketka, belt, klyastik.


1. Sew inserts and coquettes
In order to improve the appearance of clothes and to keep the original shape at the time of sewing for a long time, various seams are used in sewing shirts. Such seams are used for sewing collars, skirts, pocket flaps, cuffs and other decorative details.
The seam is cut in the form of the main detail, without leaving seam allowances or so that the edge to be sewn with a reverse seam penetrates the seam by 0.1-0.2 cm.
When sewing a shirt, the cuts of seams that are split and ironed before sewing, and the cuts of seams that are laid on one side after sewing are smoothed on special machines (51-A kl, 208-A kl), and the edges of low-scratch gauzes are serrated. .
In order to fit the garment to the human body and to make the garment adhere well to the body, the main details are pleated. The width (depth) of the pleat and the number of pleats depend on the extent to which the garment clings to the body. Belts can be on the chest and waist.
The pleats at the waist are necessary for the garment to stick to the body. In light dresses, the folds are solid. Two marks are placed on the detail to sew the skirts. The first line is the bending line of the detail, and the second line is the line that determines the width of the detail. The first line
the detail is folded to the right side and the second mark is sewn along the line. If the quilt starts from the edge of the detail (Fig. 2.1, a), it is sewn from the side of the cut of the detail. And the coil (b) located in the middle of the detail is sewn starting from one end of the needle. If one end of the quilt is to form a seam, first it is sewn by attaching the end of the quilt to the cross section of the detail, then turning the detail into an angle, it is sewn along the mark line (v). Rolls can be ironed depending on the model (g).
2.1- types of twists points

. Sew inserts and coquettes

To decorate the front and back parts of the clothes, they have embroidery and coquettes. They have a straight, oval, complex shape. These details are attached to the main details, sewn with a seam or a press seam. Inserts or coquettes can be connected with an open edge, connected with a border, connected with a folded fold, connected with a net. When connecting straight or oval-shaped coquettes to the main detail with a press seam, turn them right-side inward, align their cuts, and 1.5 cm. it is sewn together by forming a seam. Cuts of the choker are smoothed and laid on the coquette side and ironed. According to the model, the decoration is worn from the right side (Fig. 2.2, a).
When connecting the yoke to the main detail with a seam, the folding line is marked on the right side of the yoke, and the joining line of the yoke is marked on the main detail. The fabric is folded along the marked line and ironed with the help of a special iron. The finished coquettish is sewn to the marked line of the main detail by straightening the coquettish thread (b).
When connecting oval and complex-shaped coquettes and inserts with a seam, if the width of the fabric is wider than 0.5 cm, the cut of the coquettes and inserts is cut in this shape and sewn with an overturned stitch. The right side of the coquettish is sewn to the TOMONP, the coquettish part is made with a border 0.1-0.2 cm wide, the edges are ironed, and it is pressed and sewn to the main detail (v).
Figure 2.2. Connect the coquettes to the main details.
The edges of the coquettes, which are connected with an open edge, can be processed with a folded seam with a closed cut (Fig. 2.2, a), with a core seam (b), with an inverted seam with a lining (v).
A bend line is marked on the right side of the main part to connect the external corner main part to the socket or insert. This line should be 0.5-1.0 cm wider than the line. The sign is ironed by bending the main detail along the line. The excess seams in the corners are cut off, and sewn together on the reverse side with a width of 0.5-0.7 cm. Chok is ironed. Key detail corners are flipped to the right. The key line is marked by pressing and sewing the main detail on the insert or yoke. The main detail of this symbol is folded and ironed on the line and pressed (Fig. 2.3, a).
When connecting an internal corner insert or coquette to the main detail with a press seam, their internal corners are cut to the required width. Then the base part of the socket or insert is placed with the right side facing inward and connected with a joint seam. The detail is turned right side out and ironed


the decoration is carried out (Fig. 2.3, b)
Figure 2.3. Connecting the introduction or cocktails to the main detail.
1. Preparation of decorations and connection to details
Women's shirts are decorated with various fittings, embroidered seams, folded folds, various decorative seams, types, and covering decorations. When sewing the decorative seams with a cast-on edge, the edge detail is ironed by 2 folds, placed on top of the main detail, and then the 2nd detail is placed on top of it, 1 mm. 2nd car is run away. The decoration can be on the edge of the detail or in the middle. If it is in the middle, it is split and ironed (Fig. 2.4).
Sutaj, zhiyak, tur are stitched on machines with 1 or 2 needles using straight or broken needles (Fig. 2.5, a, 6, c).
It is possible to have a single floor or two floors. They are connected with an attachment (Fig. 2.6, a) or a compression (6) seam. With the help of a special folding machine, the edges of the garment can be folded inwards and sewn along the lines of the mark (v).

2.4-rasm. Bezak kntni asosiy detalga ulash.

2.5-rasm. Sutaj, jiyak, turlarini detalga ulash.

2.6-rasm. Beykalarni asosiy detalga ulash.

Figure 2.7. Connecting folds and decorative details to the main detail.
The upper side of the fold may be sewn with a seam. In this case, after a fold is formed in the folded fold, a core is placed on the upper edge, and the core is placed using a special folding machine (Fig. 2.7, a).
One end of the folds is machined with a broken blade. On the second open cut, a fold is created by using a single-needle or double-needle machine. In this case, the tension of the machine thread should be loosened. Cast fold is sewn to the main detail with a seam. To form folds, the carrier is squeezed out (b).
When sewing carved ornaments, a broken needle is carried along the marked lines from the right side of the main detail. The gap between the spacers is trimmed (v).
When sewing the cover decoration, the decorative detail is sewn to the right side of the main detail along the line of the mark with a broken stitch along the seams (g). If one side of the covering decoration is glued, the decoration detail is glued with an iron or a press.
1. Sewing a belt and cleats
Belts are narrow and wide, soft and hard, one-piece construction and lined (aura or lined).
A completely cut belt or cleat is folded lengthwise (with the right side inward) and 0.5-0.7 cm on both sides. It is sewn together with a wide seam. 0.7-1.0 to the opposite side of the second point of the belt
cm width is folded and sewn. The belt is turned from the left side to the right side with the help of a special device. The open side is sewn on a universal machine at a distance of 0.1-0.15 cm from the folded fabric (Fig. 2.8, a).
When putting a glue-covered fold inside the belt, glue the edge of the glue to the opposite side of the belt, bringing the edge of the glue to the fold, not reaching the ends of the belt by 0.7-1 cm, and 0.3-0 from the lower edge. A 5 cm rib is placed and glued with a press or an iron.
2.8-rasm. Belbog‘larni tikish.
Belbog‘ning ikkala uchi va belbog‘ yon tomoni uzunasiga tikib olinadi-da, o‘rta qismida ozgina ochiq joy qoldiriladi. SHu ochiq joydan belbog‘ maxsus moslama yordamida o‘ng to-monga ag‘dariladi. Ochiq qolgan (tikilmay qoldirilgan) joy o‘ng tomondan qo‘lda yashirin qaviq bilan tikib qo‘yiladi (b).
Belbog‘ni, xlyastiklarni qo‘sh ignali choklash mashinasida maxsus buklagich ishlatib, bostirma chok bilan ti-kish ham mumkin (v). Belbog‘ uchiga tuka qo‘yib tikishda, belbog‘ tukadan o‘tkaziladi. Belbog‘ uchini ichki tomoniga 2,4 sm o‘tqazib, qirqimini ichkari tomonga 0,7 sm bukib, qaytma baxyaqator bilan bostirib tikiladi (g).