Drenda Collins, Clarksville Linda Decker, Highland Michelle Domangue, Columbia Aylene Kovensky Gard, Columbia Leslie Gilbert, Mt. Airy Corliss Glennon, Dayton Pat Greenwald, Sykesville Joyce Halasz, Ellicott City Jane Hayes, Clarksville Jerry Kissel, Ellicott City Paul Kojzar, Ellicott City Chris McComas, Woodbine Holly McFarland, Columbia Shelley McNeal, Clarksville Ron Newmister, Dayton Barbara Nibali, Ellicott City Rosemary Noble, Ellicott City Sylvia Rampini-Huestis, Columbia Jo Ann Russo, Sykesville Paul Rutter, Elkridge Barbara White, Ellicott City Jan Marie Williams-Nguyen, Columbia Lisa Wingate, Ellicott City
Member of the Solanum lycopersicum (nightshade) family Member of the Solanum lycopersicum (nightshade) family Other members: peppers, potatoes, tobacco, & eggplants Tomato leaves, stems, & green fruit contain a glycoalkaloid
Tomatoes flourish in (1) good, well-drained soil and require a (2) minimum of 8-10 hours of direct sunlight and (3) approximately an inch of water a week or 6 gallons/week. Tomatoes flourish in (1) good, well-drained soil and require a (2) minimum of 8-10 hours of direct sunlight and (3) approximately an inch of water a week or 6 gallons/week.
“Add compost, compost, “Add compost, compost, and more compost. I use leaves, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps to into the garden bed after it has finished aging (3 to 6 months).”
Containers can solve problems, such as bad soil & high-rise living, but requirements for the plants remain the same Containers can solve problems, such as bad soil & high-rise living, but requirements for the plants remain the same
When soil temperature reaches 55 to 60 degrees When soil temperature reaches 55 to 60 degrees Here, usually mid-May to 1st week of June Can plant earlier if plants are protected If planted early, plants may grow slowly & be subject to insect & disease attacks
Chose small sturdy transplants, 5 to 6 weeks old, no taller than 6 inches Chose small sturdy transplants, 5 to 6 weeks old, no taller than 6 inches Plant on cloudy, wind-free day – or late afternoon Remove leaves except top-2-3 inches Dig shallow trench a little deeper than the root ball, lay tomato on its side turning up the top of the tomato Plastic mulch will warm soil, otherwise do not mulch with organic mulch until soil warms
Videos Videos - www.extension.umd.edu
- Click on Youtube button
- Search HGIC playlist for tomatoes
Publications - www.extension.umd.edu/hgic
- Click on “Information Library”, “Publications” and “Vegetable, Fruit and Herb Gardening”
- See HG 56 – IPM Series - Tomatoes
TOMATOES (* = hybrid variety) TOMATOES (* = hybrid variety) Red: Better Boy*, Big Beef*, Big Boy*, Celebrity*, Delicious, Early Girl*, Jet Star*, Mortgage Lifter, Park’s Whopper*, Red Pear, Rutgers, Stupice, Supersonic* Pink/purple: Cherokee Purple, Eva Purple Ball, German Johnson, Giant Belgian, Pink Brandywine, Pruden’s Purple Yellow: Golden Queen, Lemon Boy, Yellow Pear Paste: Amish Paste, Roma, San Marzano, San Remo, Super Italian, Viva Italia* Cherry: Gardener’s Delight, Sun Cherry, Sun Gold, Sweet 100*, Sweet Cherry, Sweet Million
Early: Early Girl* (* = hybrid variety) Early: Early Girl* (* = hybrid variety) Red cherry: Sweet 100* Orange cherry: Sun Gold* Small red: Juliet* Large red: Celebrity*, Better Boy*, & Supersteak* Heirloom: Brandywine Paste: San Marzano Small yellow: Yellow Plum/Pear Large orange: Kellogg’s Breakfast
Determinate (or bush or patio) varieties grow to the pre-determined height of the cultivar. Though plants may be short, they can produce fruit all summer. This type is great for containers and small gardens. Determinate (or bush or patio) varieties grow to the pre-determined height of the cultivar. Though plants may be short, they can produce fruit all summer. This type is great for containers and small gardens. Indeterminate varieties produce fruit at intervals along their ever-growing stems , with blooms and fruit in all stages of development – until frost kills the plant.
4 common problems: 4 common problems: Damping off Blossom-end rot Leaves die, beginning near soil “Bugs” attack
Generally it’s an early-season problem that “naturally goes away” Generally it’s an early-season problem that “naturally goes away” Remove affected fruit as soon as possible Add handful of ground limestone to planting soil Mulch to conserve moisture Drip irrigate deeply 1 to 2 gallons/plant per week Establish pH of 6.3 to 6.8 after soil test*
Mulch and drip irrigate to prevent soil splashing onto leaves Mulch and drip irrigate to prevent soil splashing onto leaves Prune lower 12”+ of leaves as plants grow If disease is severe, spray with a fixed copper fungicide to slow or stop disease No cultivars have genetic resistance, though some are more susceptible than others Ignore: Generally late season before plant adversely affected Rotate location of tomato patch Remove all debris after season
Aphids: Predators & parasites, such as lady beetles & small wasps, generally control. Or blast them off with your watering hose. Aphids: Predators & parasites, such as lady beetles & small wasps, generally control. Or blast them off with your watering hose. Whiteflies: Predators and parasites usually control. Or use insecticidal soap, pyrethrum, or a combination, as directed on the label. Hornworms: Hand pick and squish underfoot or drown in jar of soapy water. Or use them as fish bait. Warning: Toxic sprays that kill the “bad guys” generally kill the “good guys” too.
Look for short, stocky plants with dark-green leaves Avoid plants that evidence disease (yellow leaves) or damage (lack of water) Check label for resistance to diseases & pests (VFN…) Check label (or catalogs) to see if variety is determinate or indeterminate Shop when new plants have arrived, probably just before the weekend
Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC) Home and Garden Information Center (HGIC) - 800-342-2507
- http://extension.umd.edu/hgic
Grow-It-Eat-It website - http://extension.umd.edu/growit
Master Gardener state website - http://extension.umd.edu/mg
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