Shorelines are places where bodies of water meet dry land Coasts are landward of ocean shorelines Beach: a narrow strip of land, washed by waves or tides . Ordinary Waves are caused by WIND - Waves are produced when wind drag causes the surface water of oceans/lakes to rise and fall
- - Waves get refracted on approaching shoreline
Rip Currents are produced when water piles up in surf zones and flows seaward, generally perpendicular to the coast.
Daily rise/fall of surfaces of oceans/lakes due to gravitational pull of the Moon/Sun on the Earth– also due to force created as Earth spins on its axis Daily rise/fall of surfaces of oceans/lakes due to gravitational pull of the Moon/Sun on the Earth– also due to force created as Earth spins on its axis Flood tides- elevate sea surface that cause shoreline to move inland Ebb Tides- low sea surface that cause shoreline to move seaward
Bay of Fundy tides reach16 m (about 53 ft) at the head of the bay. The 12.4 hour period of the twice daily lunar tides is close to the natural back and forth sloshing period of the bay. Bay of Fundy tides reach16 m (about 53 ft) at the head of the bay. The 12.4 hour period of the twice daily lunar tides is close to the natural back and forth sloshing period of the bay.
Wave erosion occurs when deep water waves hit the shore with full force Air and water are forced into cracks at high pressure
Headlands- cliffs that jut seaward Headlands- cliffs that jut seaward Wave-cut bench is produced when waves undercut headland Sea Caves are produced when waves are refracted against the side of headland Sea Arch forms when two Sea Caves erode completely through the headland
Riprap/Seawall- protect shore lines Riprap/Seawall- protect shore lines Groin – stabilizes beaches Jetty – keep inlets clear Breakwater – protect a harbor
Longshore Drift causes deposits: - Longshore Drift causes deposits:
Spit is a finger-like ridge of sand deposited where Longshore drift encounters deeper water Baymouth is a spit that covers the access to a bay – the area behind it fills with sediment
1. Glaciers 1. Glaciers Glaciers lower sea-level slowly They melt quickly – sea level rises 2. Mid Ocean Ridges (MOR’s) Mid Ocean Ridge raises sea level if large Lowers sea level if activity slows - becomes smaller - Sit in the bath tub – water level rises
Coast types formed mainly from non-marine processes such as glaciation (Long Island) , stream deposition (deltas) , fluctuating sea levels Coast types formed mainly from non-marine processes such as glaciation (Long Island) , stream deposition (deltas) , fluctuating sea levels Also Organic Coasts - reefs, mangroves
Tectonic uplift and sea-level changes Postglacial Isostatic rebound and sea-level changes Mid-ocean Ridge grows/wanes and sea-level changes
- Fringing Reef- initially surround land, grow seaward
- Barrier Reef- separated from coast by a lagoon
- Atoll- circular structure from great depth that encloses shallow lagoon
- Mangroves
Ongoing marine erosion and deposition Ongoing marine erosion and deposition Erosion: Headlands, wave cut terraces, sea caves, stacks, and arches Deposition: Beaches, spits, hooks, tombolos
Divergent/Convergent plate boundaries possess steep continental shelves Divergent/Convergent plate boundaries possess steep continental shelves Passive Continental Margins- have broad continental shelves and have beaches with spit Island Arcs can protect coastlines
Break waters, groins, and jetties all cause deposition of sediment somewhere Break waters, groins, and jetties all cause deposition of sediment somewhere Other areas lose beach sand Development destroys vital shoreline vegetation Water and petroleum pumping cause subsidence
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