SMALLFRY WINES, WAYNE AHRENS & SUZI HILDER, Barossa – Biodynamic
Download 6.21 Mb.Pdf ko'rish
- Bu sahifa navigatsiya:
- SAM VINCIULLO, MARGARET RIVER, Western Australia
- EXPRESS WINEMAKERS, RYAN O’MEARA, MOUNT BARKER, Western Australia
- WESTERN AUSTRALIA
- SOUTH AMERICA Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard are sweeter John Keats – Ode To A Grecian Urn CHILE
- CASA AZUL, Rapel Valley
- LA PODA CORTA, DENIS DUVEAU, Rapel Valley
SMALLFRY WINES, WAYNE AHRENS & SUZI HILDER, Barossa – Biodynamic
Smallfry wines is a partnership in business and life between Suzi Hilder and Wayne Ahrens, viticulturists bitten by the
winemaking bug. That they are also foodies drives their winemaking down a certain path. Natural ferments, nil to minimal
adjustment, old oak and a light hand in the cellar allows the vineyard to speak. The essential component, of course, is great
fruit, they are lucky enough to own two very special vineyards, one in Eden Valley and the other in Vine Vale in the valley floor.
The Eden Valley vineyard has been established since 1994, whilst the Vine Vale block has been the Schlieb’s family seat for
generations, with the last incumbent putting in 52 vintages before hanging up his snips.
18 Ha Subregion Vine Vale – home to some of the oldest vines in the valley including Shiraz, Grenache, Mataro/Monastrell,
Carignan, Cabernet, Cinsalt, Riesling, Semillon, Tempranillo, Graciano, Bastardo, Marsanne, Roussanne, et al.
Their place is probably the last to have plantings of Pedro, Semillon and Riesling in the whole Barossa. The majority of these
vines saw out the first world war and were too old for call up so this wine gives them a reason for being and a reinvention.
Tangerine Dream is a field blend of Semillon 46%, Pedro Ximenez 41%, Riesling 10.5%, Roussanne 2%, Muscat 0.5%. Some of
the grapes are macerated on skins for between 9 and 21 days. The rest go straight to (used) barrels to start ferment. All
ferments are ambient and natural and malo naturally occurs. The wine itself is
deep golden orange, a bit cloudy, displays aromas of citrus peel and spice blend with baser notes of oatmeal and brown rice.
The palate is full and dry, grainy tannin make this the red drinkers white, multi layered and rewards time in the glass.
Stella is Joven-stylee. As the Cinsault plantings bear fruit it is a pleasure to be exploring the potential of this variety to counter
the effects of climate change. Blending with some lovely whole bunch fermented Shiraz has brought a roundness and darker
fruit aspect without diminishing the vibrancy of the wine. The colour is blue purple, aromas suggestive of cranberries,
blueberries with a woody herb background, Skippy the Bush Kangaroo palate (if you were born many decades ago – and I
was). 60% Cinsault & 40% Shiraz. Minimal sulphites 40ppm
The Shiraz comes from fruit sourced from the Vine Vale subregion of the Barossa Valley. This wine reflects the characters of
the Solodized Solodnetz soil series in which it was grown. Yes, really! An elegant, spicy nose with developed, ripe, juniper berry
characters and firm grainy tannins in the mouth. Very much a food orientated style, maturation in seasoned oak has integrated
flavours without overpowering them. Deep garnet, magenta aromas of dark plums, cigar box and cinnamon stick, the initial
fruit sweetness is balanced by grainy tannins and fresh acidity.
STELLA LUNA RED
- 347 -
SAM VINCIULLO, MARGARET RIVER, Western Australia
In very simple terms, Sam Vinciullo is making some of the most exciting wine in Australia. He recently returned home to
Western Australia, following years spent working in California, other parts of Australia and, notably, Mt Etna where he worked
with, among others, Frank Cornelissen.
He is highly enthusiastic about progressive farming and biodiversity. In his first vintage, Sam bought fruit from the parcel
farmed by his friends Iwo and Sarah from Si Vintners (also among Australia’s most exciting vignerons).
This vineyard is roughly 3 kilometres from their home vineyard and on similar soils, a mix of loam and classical red gravel. Iwo
and Sarah have been dry farming this parcel (for several years, organically, and the fruit quality, clearly evident in both Sam’s
wines and theirs, is outstanding.
In terms of winemaking, Sam is fanatical about cleanliness and fruit selection. Perfect fruit is fermented, without temperature
control, allowed to go through malolactic conversion and bottling takes place anywhere between 5 and 10 months, depending
on the style of the vintage. Sam is particularly eager to express the terroir, especially in terms of retaining primary flavours and
aromas in the wines, and as such, the wines are a pure representation of this part of Margaret River. Post fermentation and
pressing, the wines are handled very, very little and retain a small amount of dissolved carbon dioxide.
The wines are not fined or filtered, nor do they have any elevage in oak and sulphur is not used at any stage of the winemaking
The Sauvignon is from dry farmed own-rooted organically farmed vines. Grapes are manually harvested, destemmed and hand
plunged with the skins in plastic food grade tubs for ten days, then basket pressed. Ferment is ambient with indigenous yeasts,
malo happens in its own good time and the wine is bottled without filtration, fining or added sulphur. The wine has wonderful
aromas of elderflower cordial and pink grapefruit.
Warner Glen red is 67% Merlot and 33% Cabernet Sauvignon from lowish yields in this cooler part of the Margaret River.
Made in the same zero-interventionist way as the white, being destemmed with two weeks on the skins and nothing added.
WARNER GLEN SAUVIGNON
WARNER GLEN RED
EXPRESS WINEMAKERS, RYAN O’MEARA, MOUNT BARKER, Western Australia
Express Winemakers is built on the notion that wine should express a sense of place. It is a collaboration between good mates
Ryan and Pete, who upon returning to Western Australia on the back of an endless vintage around the globe for several years,
were thoroughly bored by the local wines at home that all tasted more or less the same. After tasting the flavours and textures
that grapes and yeast were capable of, they thought that local vineyards with their perfect climates weren’t being done justice
and took it upon themselves to create soulful and expressive wines.
Based in Western Australia’s Great Southern Wine Region they seek out naturally balanced vineyards as it makes their job a lot
easier as they can just kick back and let the native yeast do their thing in true minimal intervention winemaking style.
They produce a number of expressive single vineyard wines as well as some wackier blends, which express a great sense of fun.
Expressive wines with no expectations.
Their wild-fermented, unfined and unfiltered Riesling comes from the sandy granitic soils of one of Frankland’s oldest
vineyards. A short time on skins and no settling prior to a spontaneous yet extended fermentation have conferred some crunchy
phenolics and plenty of distinctive flavour. Floral and waxy notes entwine with a hint of gunpowder on the nose. The palate is
bold with lively broad acid, generous length and a unique softness without becoming flabby, finishing with a lick of cleansing
phenolics. The flavours are of ripe grapefruit, candied lemon rind and honeysuckle with some yeasty complexity.
One of a small number of plantings of the grape in Mt Barker, this block of Tempranillo is showing signs of coming of age from
the excellent 2015 Vintage. This wine was wild fermented and basket pressed to old oak casks where it spent the next 9 months
before being bottled unfined and unfiltered
in droves. Gamey meats, leather, licorice, spices, mushrooms, cherries and dried fruits are all there, finishing with
characteristic cleansing powdery tannins
The Syrah is from one of the Great Southern’s original vineyards, planted by Plantagenet in the 1960s. This old vine fruit was
hand picked, foot stomped and wild fermented with 100% whole bunches. Spending 8 days on skins before being basked pressed
to old oak casks where it spent the next nine months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. Intriguing savoury character of
concentrated dry cure black olives, seaweed and leather along with white pepper and other spices. The palate is dense with
forest fruits as well as menthol and spices. Fine chalky tannins.
MOUNT BARKER SYRAH
- 348 -
SI VINTNERS, SARAH MORRIS & IWO JAKIMOWICZ, Margaret River – Biodynamic
New brilliant winery alert!
Margaret River is not the part of Australia you associate with jazzy iconoclasm. Wines from this region tend to be square and
big-boned (and big-fleshed) and usually clad in heavy oak apparel.
S 1& I Vintners is made up of Iwo Jakimowicz and Sarah Morris who in September 2010 purchased a 30-reacre estate with 20
acres under vine (the majority of which were planted in 1978). Their property is situated just south of the Margaret River
township of Rosa Glen and the motivation was to handcraft natural (and natural-tasting) wines, expressive of the vineyard and
sub-region. They started farming their vineyard organically/biodynamically from the beginning and all their wines are made
without any of the usual commercial winemaking additives apart from a small sulphur addition at bottling and bottled without
fining or filtration.
The baby of the stable is a Semillon-Chardonnay (70/30). The fruit is hand harvested, maintained in whole bunches for five days
then basket pressed and naturally fermented in a mixture of concrete eggs, large format French oak and stainless steel and kept
on lees until bottling. A wine that manages to be bright and textural with a touch of butter cookies, lemon peel and white spice
Sophie comes from low-cropping 35 yr old Pinot Noir planted in Karri loam over decomposed granite/white clay soils, grown
biodynamically and harvested according to ripeness with a focus on natural acidity. Hand harvested, whole bunch pressed and
spontaneously fermented in concrete eggs followed by eight months ageing in old French oak barriques. Battonage for the first
three months the wine was retained on lees until bottling. Made with no additives only a minimal sulphur addition at bottling.
No fining or filtration. Made with no additives only a minimal sulphur addition at bottling. No fining or filtration. Rusty “wild
salmon” colour, a good rip of juicy pomegranate hits you followed by yeasty, toasted brioche with dry ginger and fennel seeds.
This is bone-dry, salty and savoury with a great bolt of acid.
Baba Yaga is skin contact Sauvignon Blanc co-fermented with a small proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon.
spends around 30 days on skins and the Cab is added in whole bunches towards the end of that time. Fermented in neutral tanks
and bottled with no SO2 addition.
Cacharro Cabernet Sauvignon is made from their younger block of Cabernet Sauvignon vines. Situated on a south facing slope
of gravelly clay loam. A fruit focused wine, extended skin contact maceration and aged in concrete.
whole bunch, the extraction is very gentle. It is the supreme expression of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged in
concrete eggs for about 12 months
Lello is Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, fermented separately, each on skins for 30 days with a year in puncheon, then bottled
with no sulphur. The blend is composed of two barrels of Sauvignon to one of Semillon. The fruit is sourced from ‘the vineyard
down the road’. Spicy scents, touch of appley ciderous stuff, but floral, grassy and lemon-on-passionfruit scents. Touch of
herbal greenery as you approach but then hits with peppery lemony tang and drives chalky and piercing across the palate. So
alive and fresh. Delicious drinking, but prepare of the herbal hit too.
SI BABA YAGA
SI TABLE WINE
SI CACHORRA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
- 349 -
Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard are sweeter
John Keats – Ode To A Grecian Urn
Chile has so many reasons for making good wine, namely, the absence
of phylloxera, a superb climate, lots of land and massive investment in
plant and equipment. And yet only recently is vineyard differentiation
an issue; the inexhaustible supply of irrigation from the melting snow of
the Andes makes it an easy option to grow vines on the flat lands. The
commercial philosophy of having enormous wineries churning out
massive production is useful in manufacturing oceans of superplonk, but
quality wines are almost invariably the result of greater discrimination
in the vineyard and the winery. Wine makers are discovering the value
of terroir: the Casablanca Valley, for example, seems to suit white grape
varieties, the limestone soils of Limari are a natural terroir for mineral
Chardonnay, whilst the cooler hillside regions are ideal for red wines. In
addition to the usual varietal suspects some distinctive wines are made
from the Carmenere grape, which, for some reason, has been confused
with Merlot until now. Malbec also shows great potential, Syrah has a
home in Choapa, whilst Pais, Carignam and Cinsault perform eloquently
in the unirrigated vineyards of Maule. We work with the truly artisan:
Villalobos with their wild vines that grow up trees and in bushes in the
forest (their viticultists being the local wild ponies) and Louis-Antoine
Luyt, who produces natural wines from old bushvines in Cauquenes –
and with the progressively medium-sized, namely De Martino. Based in
the Isla de Maipo, De Martino have vineyards throughout Chile,
matching grape to terroir. They are the first notable Chilean winery to
abandon the religion of extraction and oak. The wines they are a-
“With that he poured the glass of blood-red Carmenere
that clung to the glass with butterfly wings that seemed
to edge up the lip of the stemware as if they were trying
to escape…. What I heard in that glass was not the
singing of peasants or the sound of panpipes so
familiar in Chilean wines, but the sad roar of the
Antarctic Ocean and the distant wallowing of
walruses. This was a wine made from the legendary
Tierra del Fuego vines grown in his Aconcaguan
vineyard. Its perfume was heady – all berries, sun and
mountain water diverted from the melting glaciers to
irrigate his vineyard. The flavour was exceptional and
the effect bedazzling. Moments of conquistadors
flashed before me; gold-covered mountains and
fleeing Indians; blood and earthquakes; mountain
pumas and Mayan cities.”
CASA AZUL, Rapel Valley
A jaunty quintet of varietals punching considerably above their flyweight prices.
The Sauvignon Blanc fruit comes from the Curicó Valley, located in Chile’s central zone. There are rich, alluvial soils
in this region and this, in conjunction with a Mediterranean climate, makes it possible to produce grapes with a
characteristic freshness. The vineyards are managed with care in order to ensure that the exposure and irrigation of
the fruit is carefully monitored. In this way a balance is maintained between the leaf development and the ripening of
the fruit. In colour the Sauvignon is a pale, gleaming greeny-yellow, with the fragrance of tropical fruits and white
flowers. It has a fresh, light, youthful taste, with gentle acidic overtones, shouts “goosy grassberries” and leaves the
mouth refreshed. The Chardonnay, meanwhile, from vineyards located in the Maipo valley, reveals ripe buttery fruit,
hints of apricot, melon and nectarine and is soft and round in the mouth. The Maipo valley terrain also suits the
Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a predominance of alluvial gravel-type soils in most of the best vineyards, with some
more sandy soils in other areas. A wide variety of strategies and techniques are used in canopy management, such as
positioning the shoots vertically, all with the aim of maximizing the amount of sunlight in the area where the fruit is
ripening. Irrigation is used wisely to maintain the balanced growth of the vine and obtain a constant rhythm of
The Cabernet is a dark red wine with a touch of purple. Complex cherry scents combine in the nose with chocolate to
give an intense aroma. This is a medium-bodied wine with the taste of fresh grapes, balanced by sweet tannins. The
persistence of the flavour is excellent.
The popular Merlot, vinified from Rapel Valley fruit, has pleasant aromas, reminiscent of plums and red fruits, with
some peppery notes. In the mouth it offers a very slight touch of pepper and ripe red fruits. It is smooth, full of sweet
rounded tannins and with a silky finish with hints of mocha.
The reds, in particular, show why Chile is hot on the heels of the Bordelais, producing wines with stuffing, varietal
character and drinkability.
- 350 -
Who needs wine when you’ve got labels?
Divided into four categories Plum, Plummier, Plum Bum and Brian Sewell, the Merlot profile is designed to make consumers aware of
the sheer range of plumminess that Merlot can attain. A similar Argentinean initiative calibrates “chocolaticity” in their versions of the
The profile was created by the International Merlot Foundation (IMF), a non profit organisation dedicated to “putting the “Oh” factor”
back in Merl-ot, after market research discovered that the grape variety was being confused with a small marsupial that lives in the
Dr Merle Ho has been using the plum scale on her back labels for two years and says that the proof of the pudding is in the labelling.
A new Alexander Payne movie called Backside, celebrating the re-emergence of the world’s 350lumiest varietal, is said to be in the
pipeline, starring Paul Giamatti as Robert Parker’s amazing farting dog.
LA PODA CORTA, DENIS DUVEAU, Rapel Valley
Denis Duveau is a man on a mission. A consultant oenologue from the Loire he has decided to make terroir-driven wines in
the New World. With colleague, Antoine Toublanc, a resident of Santiago, he discovered a location in the Rapel Valley, 100
km south of the capital, which had a perfect climate and terroir for making high quality red wines. The soil was composed of
lime and clay with glacial deposits, whilst the temperature reached on average 32C during the day and 15C at night – perfect
for the production of good anthocyanins. The grape they chose to express this terroir was Carmenere, formerly a Bordeaux
speciality, but which had disappeared after the invasion of phylloxera.
The El Grano is made from grapes grown at 450m. The vines are ploughed, no weedkillers are required, and because of the
exceptional climate, no chemicals are needed either. The yields are kept low by a green harvest. The juice is fermented at
about 30C in stainless steel and sees no oak. The nose expresses greenery in abundance: capsicum, green bean and mint pea
and there is a satisfying highly digestible savoury bitterness in the mouth. La Poda Corta is from 35-year-old vines grown at
700m altitude. The grapes are harvested by hand. This wine spends 16 months in French oak barrels.
CARMENERE “EL GRANO”
CARMENERE “LA PODA CORTA”
“Wine: Noble beverage, drawing its tonics from the minerals of the earth
its balm from the sun, sheltered by the vineyard;
Its diversity of fragrances from the breezes that caress its flowers,
delight of epicurean palates, honey of dreams,
culmination of intelligences, light which illumines the spirit,
our lips kiss it, our minds meditate on it.”
- 351 -
Download 6.21 Mb.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham:
ma'muriyatiga murojaat qiling