France Region: Beaujolais Appellation: Chénas
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PO BOX 1438 TOPANGA CA | 310.455.1287 | www.garberandcompany.com | info@garberandcompany.com
Paul-Henri Thillardon Country: France Region: Beaujolais Appellation: Chénas Producer: Paul Henri Thillardon Founded: 2008 Annual Production: 500 cases Farming: Biodynamic Website:
Paul-Henri Thillardon is, at a very young age, a masterful winemaker. It's got to be a gift, he has perfect pitch and his wines sing. Chenas is not far from Moulin-a-Vent, and for that reason the wines can show much of the same muscle. Paul-Henri brings you this concentration, but knows where the balance point is for elegance. They call it 'grown-up wine.' In 2008, at the age of 22, Paul Henri made the important decision to dedicate his work to the cru of Chénas, rather than in neighboring and better-known Moulin-a-Vent which usurps much of the notoriety of Chénas. Tilting at windmills, some say. He began with 3 hectares (7.2 acres) of family vines in appellation Beaujolais, then the following year entered into a sharecrop deal for 2 hectares (4.8 acres) in Chénas near the Château Boccard on granite soil in the climate Deschamps, a vineyard that had been tended organically for 15 years prior. He was able to use the château's winemaking facilities, and so, early on, had optimum working conditions. Then in 2010, he planted an acre of vines on a beautiful southeast facing parcel in Chiroubles, and another parcel of Viognier grapes, a variety that is not authorized in the Beaujolais rules. By early 2011, the domain covered 5.7 hectares (13.7 acres) with his Chénas vines an average of 40 years old.
As with many of the new generation, Thillardon is dedicated to organics and has taken to using horses instead of tractors in the vineyard à la Pontet-Canet. The vineyard is biodynamically farmed - Vines are only treated with herbs and are ploughed by horse. The wines are made with indigenous yeasts and see no sulfur until bottling. Vinification is Burgundian - Grapes are de-stemmed before fermentation. Long fermentation and maceration.
PO BOX 1438 TOPANGA CA | 310.455.1287 | www.garberandcompany.com | info@garberandcompany.com
Paul-Henri Thillardon (continued)
From the beginning, Paul-Henri decided to work the vineyards organically, and even biodynamically, with the goal of producing wines of quality respective and representative of their terroirs. The vineyards of Chénas are certified AB (agriculture biologique), the Beuajolais vineyard will be in 2011. The vines are treated with plants which reinforce their defenses (decomposing nettles, comfrey, horsetail, and algues) and he bought a horse (a Trait Comté, a big workhorse) who works some of the vineyards and aids in the aeration of the soil, and the microbial life of the soils. All of the wines are made from select parcels to allow the Gamay to express its terroir during the tasting.
The grapes are picked and brought to the winery for a selection bunch by bunch because the vineyards were damaged by hail twice the first three vintages. The vinification is done by the burgundy method, without stems but whole berries and with long fermentation on the skins and moderate extractions to obtain wines which are fine, subtle and with race. The Chénas “Les Carrières” is bottled after Easter whereas the cuvées of the parcels undergo a longer élévage, of one year, or more if the potential is there. All those decisions are based on tasting. No sulfur used until bottling. Wine Blend Vine Age Soil Type Vineyard Area Les Carrières Gamay 40 + year vines average
Alluvial Granitic Shale, Maganese
7.0 ha
Les Boccards Gamay
40 + year vines
average Pink Granite, Schist Shale, 7.0 ha
Les Reveux Gamay
60 + year vines
average Clay, Limestone 0.5 ha
100% Gamay vines planted on local shale with traces of manganese and alluvial soils, the vines are planted in an old quarry on a hillside facing south. The Gamay vines have an average age of 40 years and are organically & biodynamically farmed since 2007. The vineyards are located on a plateau southwest around the Castle Boccards. Tillage and plowing are done by horse and vines are only treated with herbs - no synthetic product. PO BOX 1438 TOPANGA CA | 310.455.1287 | www.garberandcompany.com | info@garberandcompany.com
Paul-Henri Thillardon (continued)
Manual harvesting. The grapes are de-stemmed and put into tanks cold. Hand harvested, the grapes are de-stemmed and macerated for about 16 days. Native yeast fermentation. A screw press type "vaslin" is used when pressing. In concrete tanks for 6 months. Packaging and bottle burgundy square ring cork quality A+. After pressing, the wine is aged 5 months in four year-old barrels before bottling without filtration. The nose reveals notes of spice with floral notes like peony. The palate is quite sweet, candied notes come fast enough. The structure is rather silky because of the consumption of Chénas in its youth. The flavors change throughout the tasting passing from candied fruits to a roasted, spicy cinnamon pronounced finish.
100% Gamay. The vineyards are located in the town of La Chapelle-de-Guinchay (71570). The soil is granitic (pink granite). The vineyards are located on a plateau south-west around the Castle Boccards and biodynamically farmed. The vines have been organically farmed for 15 years. Tillage and plowing are done by horseand vines are only treated with herbs - no synthetic product.
Manual harvesting. The grapes are destemmed and put into tanks cold. Native yeast fermentation. Maceration lasts about 12 days. A screw press type "vaslin" is used when pressing. Aging in oak barrels for 5 months (70%) but no new oak. First nose reveals notes of ripe black fruits, second nose of burnt notes take over. On the palate, the wine is sweet, this wine is very round and rich flavors. The tannins are present and silky. The delicacy and complexity of the sample shows Chénas well both in its youth and in longevity.
100% Gamay. Les Reveux was the first parcel that Paul-Henri's father bought when he moved to Beaujolais. He sold the grapes to the co-op, but when Paul-Henri decided to create a domaine, his father gave him the parcel. Paul-Henri has been making it since 2008. It is a 1/2 hectare parcel on clay-limestone in the sector known as "Pierres Dorées". The vines are 60 years old.
Vinification is semi-carbonic with no added yeast or chaptalization and there is no SO2 used until just before bottling.
He made 2,000 bottles of the 2013 and only has about 200 left. His says it is the Thillardon house cuvée because the wine prodcued fcrom clay-limestone is on the fruit, a glou glou wine. PO BOX 1438 TOPANGA CA | 310.455.1287 | www.garberandcompany.com | info@garberandcompany.com
Paul-Henri Thillardon (continued) ADDITIONAL INFO At their annual tasting the magazine Bourgogne Aujourd’hui awarded Thillardon the best note of all the Beaujolais wines with an 18 out of 20 for the Chénas Carrière 2008.
At the first Gamay of the World competition, the Chénas won a Grande Médaille d’Or, the top award.
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