Harald Heinrichs · Pim Martens Gerd Michelsen · Arnim Wiek Editors

4 
Collaboration as Key to Advance Sustainability 
Management 
As the Nike example and the case of organic cotton demonstrate, sustainability 
management usually cannot be done successfully by individual actors alone. 
Developing solutions to sustainability-related problems, whether environmental 
or social, requires not only interdisciplinary (e.g., environmental experts and 
engineers working together on a solution) but usually transdisciplinary efforts, 
i.e., collaboration within fi rms, between fi rms, and across sectors (e.g., Schaltegger 
et al.
2013a
). 
Box 7.1 Example: Clothing Made from Organic Cotton in the German 
Retail Industry (e.g., Hansen and Schaltegger
2013
 ) 
A very good example of voluntary sustainability management practices can 
be seen in the German clothing retail industry. Some of the large players have 
embarked on a transformation journey in which they change their product 
portfolio towards products with improved environmental and social perfor-
mance. For example, C&A, Germany’s largest textile retailer, engages 
strongly in the development of organic cotton practices, which has both envi-
ronmental and social benefi ts compared to conventional cotton. C&A has 
increased its share of organic textiles – sold under the brand name “Bio 
Cotton” – to more than 20 % annually. By systematically developing alterna-
tive supplier structures together with CottonConnect (see
 http://www.cotton-
connect.org
 
), a nongovernmental organization (NGO), they are able to 
increase their organic cotton products year by year and thereby increase pres-
sure to peers in the industry to invest in changes themselves. 
Mostly, large industry players are not the fi rst ones to develop more sus-
tainable practices. Often, they adopt new processes, organizational structures, 
and products from smaller entrepreneurial companies – usually operating in 
niche markets. In the case of the textile industry, Hess Nature ( 
 http://www.
hessnatur.com
) was the fi rst company to develop strictly environmental tex-
tiles, having already begun doing so in the 1980s. For example, they were one 
of the fi rst to develop production standards to assure chemical-free end prod-
ucts, introduce organic cotton production in pilot projects, and adopt strict 
labor practices in textile production plants in developing nations. 
Last but not least, large companies in industry often do not fully volun-
tarily transform their businesses – in the case of the textile industry, 
Greenpeace, particularly through its Detox campaign ( 
 http://www.green-
peace.de/detox
), has played a major role in pushing the industry towards more 
eco-friendly production. 
S. Schaltegger et al.

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