Works of young research scientists in New Uzbekistan

Kodiriy Firdavskhon Nodirjon kizi
Tashkent Institute of Textile and Light Industry, Faculty of Light Industry Technology and Design, student of the 3nd stage of Costume Design
[e-mail]
THE TYPES OF STITCHES USED IN EMBROIDERY AND THEIR SIGNIFICANCE
Annotation: This article details the specific types of stitches used in the art of embroidery and explains their importance in embroidery.
Key words: common stitch, water stitch, popop stitch, counting stitch, Iraqi stitch, terma stitch, chilvir stitch, Vladimir stitch, magiz.
INTRODUCTION
Embroidery stitches are conventionally divided into two groups according to the execution technique: counting stitches, which are sewn by counting the fabric thread, and optional stitches, which are sewn along a pre-drawn contour. Number embroidery stitches include Iraqi stitch, patterned stitch, satin stitch, flat numbered stitch, garter stitch, and other stitches. Optional stitches sewn along the contour of the drawing, in embroideries, bahia stitches are dropped along the contour of the embroidered flower, or by filling the embroidered flower, an additional layer with a grainy, raised texture is created. Such stitches include flat stitches (white flat stitch, Vladimir stitch, colored flat stitch, etc.), as well as contour and simple stitches - water stitch, Iraqi stitch, warp stitch and other stitches. As a rule, all types of embroidery stitches are sewn on the flange.
EMBROIDERY STITCHES
Common stitches include needle-forward stitches, water stitches, popop stitches, etc., as well as loop stitches, hook stitches and knot stitches. These stitches are often used as auxiliary stitches in embroidery, for example, plant branches and twigs are sewn with a water stitch, flower stems are sewn with a knot stitch, an Iraqi stitch, a popop stitch and other stitches.
The seam with the needle is a row of stitches of the same size, the distance between them is equal to the stitch itself. This is the simplest stitch. The seams of the seam are directed from right to left, and on the reverse side of the seam, similar seams are located between the seams on the right side. This stitch is sewn from the trace of the thread pulled from the fabric and along the contour drawn in the picture.
A back stitch consists of a continuous series of stitches of the same size. By moving the needle from right to left, a gap is created with the first stitch, the size of this stitch, for example, the width of four threads of fabric. To remove the second stitch, the thread is laid from left to right, and the needle is inserted at the point where the first stitch ends, and it is pulled out from the second stitch to the right of the stitch, 4 threads wide. So, the stitch on the reverse side is twice as big as the stitch on the right side. When lowering the third and subsequent stitches, the needle is inserted into the place where the previous stitch ends.
Water seams consist of a series of closely spaced oblique seams. This stitch can be sewn from left to right or facing forward. After making the first stitch on the fabric facing forward, a needle with a thread is inserted from the reverse side of the fabric, and the first stitch is pulled out from the left side of the middle. Pulling the seam thread, it is laid towards itself, and it is pressed against the fabric with the thumb of the left hand. When lowering the second stitch, the needle is inserted above the first stitch, and the second stitch is pulled out from the left side of the middle. Thus, a stitch is made by laying back the stitches and directing the needle towards itself. In this case, each new stitch goes half a stitch ahead of the previous one.
Chilvir stitch is sewn in two ways. First, stitches are made along a straight line or along the contour of the embroidery flower with a stitch with the needle in advance. Then a thread (often a different color thread) is passed from top to bottom of the needle under each stitch without hooking the fabric. If the thread needle is alternately passed from top to bottom and from bottom to top under the stitches, the same looped stitch will be formed.
An Iraqi stitch is sewn along two threads pulled out of the fabric or from an optional contour embroidery flower motif. A straight stitch path is used as an extra stitch when sewing large intricate embroideries and also to hide the joining stitch of fabric pieces. In this case, one side of the embroidered flower is alternately pierced with a needle, and the stitches are placed from left to right. The places where the needle is stuck on the fabric should be the same. Each new stitch falls on top of the previous stitch.
A loop stitch is sometimes called a ziy stitch, because the edges of the fabric are sewn with this stitch. Loop stitches are sewn perpendicular to the fabric from left to right. These seams are sewn without a flange. The fabric is placed on the index finger of the left hand and pressed with the thumb. The first stitch is lowered into the gauze, and the thread is placed below it as a loop. A needle is inserted into the fabric just to the right of the first stitch, and the loop of the thread is directed from top to bottom, and a stitch is made on the opposite side. By pulling the thread, the third stitch is dropped, and so on.
Popop stitch consists of a continuous series of loops protruding from each other. This seam can be sewn with or without a flange. In both cases, the stitch is made by pointing the needle towards itself. If the embroidery is sewn with two layers of thread, the threading stitch should be in the first stitch of the popup stitch. After finishing, the thread is directed from the lower left to the right, and the needle is inserted into the fabric at the point where the thread exits the right side of the fabric from the middle of the first loop. Popop stitch can also be sewn in a broken line style. Neat loop - the first loop of the popop stitch is sewn, and then a small stitch is made by inserting a needle into the fabric below the loop.
When embroidering knots, half of flower cores or leaves are filled with knots. Knots are sewn as follows. The thread is pressed into the gauze, and then it is drawn to the contour line on the right of the gauze. With the left hand, the string is pulled to the left. The tip of the needle is held horizontally to the left. Directing it in front of itself, thread is wound 1-2 times on the needle, holding the thread with the finger of the left hand until the stitching is finished. With the right hand, a needle is inserted into the fabric at a small distance from the place where the thread passes to the surface of the fabric. The thread is carefully pulled in the opposite direction. Pulling the formed knot to the fabric, 1.5-2 mm to the right of the stitched knot, the needle is pulled out to the right of the fabric, and next to the formed knot, it is pricked into the fabric and in a circle until the core of the flower is full. stares. The technique of making a wrap stitch is similar to knots, only more threads are wrapped around the needle. The result is a longer seam. Small flowers can be sewn in this stitch and various clothes can be decorated.
Counting stitches are the oldest and most common stitches, these are Iraqi, terma, pattern, Iraqi, numbered flat stitch and others. These stitches are called counting stitches because the embroidery is done by counting the thread of the fabric. The embroidery stitches are placed evenly on the fabric. For counting stitch embroidery, it is better to use canvas woven fabric, because the structure of such fabric is better visible. It is also possible to sew along a picture printed on a fabric where the structure of Iraqi, drawing, straight stitches is not clearly visible. Counting stitches are successfully used to decorate clothes, napkins, curtains, sofa cushions, panels and other items. The reverse side of the embroidery should be as beautiful as the right side.
Terma seams consist of a group of horizontal or vertical seams. Geometric embroidery ornaments are sewn by moving the thread needle from one edge of the flower ornament to the other, first from left to right, then from right to left. According to the embroidery, one stitch is sewn, one unstitched space is left, one more shell is sewn, and so on. The sewing of the terma stitch can be compared to the movement of the shuttle in the weaving of fabric. A negative decoration is created on the reverse side. The terma seam is sewn only by counting the fabric thread.
Counted flat stitch embroidery is double sided. Counted flat stitch is sewn with densely spaced stitches on a thick soft thread by counting the fabric thread without pulling the fabric taut. The first stitch is made on the fabric, the needle is removed from the side of this stitch, the stitch is made, and so on. So, straight stitches are placed on the right and wrong side of the fabric. The seams are different: they can be straight or oblique. In a straight stitch, the stitches are placed along the thread of the fabric. Straight stitches, similar to juniper, are located diagonally.
Flat stitches are common in folk art embroidery. Elements of embroidery along arbitrary contours transferred to the fabric are filled with straight stitches. Plain stitch is sewn in different ways and in different ways on white and colored threads. Vegetal motifs are used more in both white flat stitch and colored flat stitch.
Vladimir stitch is a decorative embroidery stitched with flat, large stitches on the upper side. This stitch is sewn on thick colored muline thread, iris thread, densely woven woolen thread, bortovka, movut and other fabrics. The main color of these embroideries is red, with some blue, green, and yellow threads added to it. Straight stitches are placed depending on the shape of the detail: from the edge to the center in flowers, from the edge to the center in curved leaves. When sewing straight seams, they are not placed close to each other. On the edges of embroideries made with a Vladimir stitch, a narrow magiz with a pattern sewn with a colorful jiyak, Iraqi stitch, popop stitch is often placed.