Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
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ROUSSILLON
Greek traders planted the first vines in the 8 th century BC in this region close to the border with Spain, nestling between Corbières and the Pyrenees. Today the wines are produced in 118 communes of the Pyrenees-Orientales. The region contains the most southerly and sun- drenched vineyards in France on a network of ancient terraces overlooking the picturesque fishing villages of Collioure (once summer home to Fauvists such as Matisse and Derain), Port Vendres, Banyuls and Cerbère. The vines, pruned in the gobelet fashion, are well adapted to the dry climate, wind and variable soils (limestone, schist, granite, gneiss etc.). Here, along the steep slopes of the Côte Vermeille, the full-bodied table wines of Collioure and the famous vins doux naturels of Banyuls have been produced since antiquity (and even praised by Pliny). The reds may be from Carignan, Grenache Noir, Syrah or Mourvèdre. More vineyards are to be found at the base of the Albères massif, in the foothills of the Pyrenees. Here castles and medieval watchtowers dominate the scarped landscape. To the west, between the rivers Tech and Tet, the vineyards of Aspres spread over the tumbling hinterland of the Pic de Canigou (the Mount Fuji of the Roussillon). Here, on the edge of the great fertile plain around Perpignan some excellent red, white and rosé wines are made. Finally, to the north of the department along the Agly river valley, the vineyards that back up against the Corbières massif, that separates the Roussillon from the Languedoc, produce a wide range of wines including the vin doux of Maury and Rivesaltes as well as the full-bodied reds of the four Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages appellations.
DOMAINE LE ROC DES ANGES, MARJORIE GALLET, Côtes du Roussillon – Organic
South of France, close to Spain), on the north exposed side of Força Réal mountain. Montner derives from Monte Negro (Montagne Noir) is so named because of the dark schists. The soil is composed of old rotten schists (which are the best sort of schists) and traditional grape varieties dominate the cépages. These decomposed flaky schists allow excellent drainage but encourage the vines to form deep root systems. The domaine comprises old vines of Carignan (50% of the red vines) and Grenache Gris (80% of the white vines), then Grenache noir, Syrah and Maccabeu. The vineyards are a mosaic of 43 tiny parcels of land arranged in a variety of expositions on the north shoulder of the Força Real. The first vines were planted in 1903 and 55% are between 40 and 90 years old. Densities of 4000-plants/hectare on the old vines and 7,000-10,000 on the young vines encourage competition, thereby reducing vigour. Everything done in the vineyard is traditional from the use of local stone to create low walls to divide the parcels of land, all bound up in the notion of respect for the cultural heritage of the region. This is extended further into viticulture where respect for the environment is paramount. All work is based on seeking equilibrium for the vine and allowing it to find its “autonomie” (defined by vigour, yield, nutrition and natural defence), an essential factor in the expression of terroir. Other than leaf thinning and pruning of the vine to encourage the microclimate, operations in the vineyards are strictly non-interventionist. It is the light permeable soils themselves from where the wines obtain their unique texture and vibrancy. This is a work in progress, according to the vigneron; only a truly living soil will be able to liberate the essence of the terroir. In the cellar simplicity and authenticity are the watchwords. A traditional press is used, exerting the mildest of pressure, extracting limpid juice. Vinification is in concrete tanks ranging between 24 and 50hl, and the shape of the tanks and the level of the fill determine the appropriately gentle extraction. Ageing takes place in two types of containers; concrete – which exalts the aromatic purity and freshness of the wine – and wood (for about 10% of the elevage) in the form of one-to-three year old barrels. The Segna de Cor comprises 50% Grenache, 30% Carignan and 20% Syrah. The relation between the Grenache and the terroir of Roc des Anges gives fruity and fleshy grapes. To balance this generosity, they are blended with old Carignan (60-80 years) and Syrah giving firm structure and dark colour and resulting in a tender (as the French would say) and fruity wine sustained by a real texture of tannins. Four ‘S’: soft, smooth, silky and smoky! Lively and fresh in the mouth, gentle flavours of red grape and berry, dried spices and roasted herbs. Clean, lingering finish. From the rock of the angels springs the blood (segna) of the heart (cor). The Llum (meaning light in Catalan) Vieilles Vignes is a blend of old Grenache Gris and Macabeu vines fermented in foudres. The nose picks up notes of white and yellow flowers, the fruit flavours are particular and delicate, the finish mineral and persistent. Iglesia Vella (old church) is pure Grenache Gris from 80-year-old vines fermented and aged in 500 litre barrels. It is brilliantly pure and precise. 2015
VIN DE PAYS DES PYRENEES-ORIENTALES BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES « LLUM » W
2013 VIN DE PAYS DES PYRENEES-ORIENTALES BLANC “IGLESIA VELLA” W
COTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES ROUGE “SEGNA DE COR” R
Macabeu/Maccabéo Long established in Roussillon, Macabeu, or Maccabéo, is a varietal of Catalan origin (some say that it is originally from Asia Minor). It is a vigorous vine, whose branches break in the wind, which is sensitive to drought (it doesn’t suit dry soils) and doesn’t like fertile and wet plains where its large, compact bunches rot easily. Its ideal soil is on slopes, not too stony, hot, well-drained and not too rich. That is undoubtedly the reason why it is quite widespread in the Agly valley. Late maturing and quite fertile, Macabeu is susceptible to powdery mildew. Its grapes are of average size, with a strong skin, and a light green colour, very sweet, with a sophisticated and delicate taste. The grapes are harvested in early September for the dry wines and carefully made into an original, colourful, quite full-bodied, delicate dry white wine with quite subtle aromas and a nose of ripe fruits. When it is mature, its high alcohol content lends a full-bodied quality to some blends of red wines. In red Vins Doux Naturels, it is a secondary but important varietal. In white Vins Doux Naturels, it is the main grape. When aged, mostly associated with Grenache Gris and Grenache Blanc, its qualities are accentuated and it almost miraculously produces delicate and complex aromas that are truly phenomenal.
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ROUSSILLON Continued…
Défenseur des vins de fruit, de plaisir et de terroir, Jean-François Nicq incarne une nouvelle génération des Côtes-du- Roussillon. Sorry, I should be writing this in English. It’s just that these wines liberate my inner terroir. Jean-François Nicq took over the domaine in 2002. It was then ten hectares and he planted a further two on beautiful schist and gneiss (very gneiss) slopes. In his first year he began the conversion to organic viticulture. In his previous job he vinified the wines at the co-op in the Côtes-du-Rhône (Estezargues) where he worked without sulphur and maintained this practice of natural winemaking at Foulards for his first vintage. The terroir is Les Albères in the Pyrenées-Orientales, 10km from the sea and Collioure, where the maritime influence brings the freshness that enables the wines to reach phenolic maturity without excessive alcohol. The nor-nor –east exposition of the vines compounds this character and finally the soils which make up this ancient granitic area bequeath a delicacy and elegance to the wines. The yields are kept low by the climatic conditions; successive droughts over the years have forced the vines to develop deep root systems to search for water and mineral nourishment. Depending on the parcel the yields range from 5- 25hl/ha. Purity is the watchword here; the first thing you notice is the freshness of the wines, and, dare one say, some pretty juicy fruit. Frida is from 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan (80 year old vines) on shattered granite soils. The yields are a valiant 10 hl/ha (count those grapes) Viticulture is entirely organic. Grapes are destemmed and fermented at a low temperature on the wild yeasts for a month. No sulphur is added. Les Glaneuses is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah from yields ranging between 5-15hl/ha (mad, I tell you, mad). Carbonic maceration for twenty days on the indigenous yeasts and no sulphur. Soif du Mal is made similarly except that it is a blend of Syrah 70% and Grenache 30%. If ever a wine tasted medicinal in a good sense then this paregoric potion fits the bill and hits the spot. Check out that nick of thyme on the aftertaste. Soif du Mal Blanc is a medium-bodied summer white combining the usual Catalan suspects: Muscat, Grenache Blanc & Macabeu. Waxy fruit, seasoned with herbs and some crushed minerals is the order of the day. Oh, and it’ll fizz in your mouth like sherbet popping candy. Le Fond de l’Air est Rouge is another reference to the Nouvelle Gauche and refers to a Chris Markham political film from 1977. It was released in the US as A Grin Without A Cat. The wine itself is a pure and generous expression of Cinsault, irresistibly crunchable with all the lean red stone fruit flavours you could want. Drink in the Nicq of time. 2016
SOIF DU MAL BLANC W
2017 OCTOBRE
R
2016 SOIF DU MAL ROUGE R
2016 LE FOND DE L’AIR EST ROUGE R
LE FOND DE L’AIR EST ROUGE - magnum R
2015 FRIDA
R
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“ What passes for wine among us, is not the juice of the grape. It is an adulterous mixture, brewed up of nauseous ingredients, by dunces, who are bunglers in the art of poison-making; and yet we, and our forefathers, are and have been poisoned by this cursed drench, without taste or flavour—The only genuine and wholesome beveridge in England, is London porter, and Dorchester table-beer; but as for your ale and your gin, your cyder and your perry, and all the trashy family of made wines, I detest them as infernal compositions, contrived for the destruction of the human species.” ― Tobias Smollett, The Expedition of Humphry Clinker DOMAINE YOYO, LAURENCE MANYA KRIEF, BANYULS, Côtes du Roussillon – Organic Laurence Manya Krief is the owner of 4 hectares spread over 7 plots in the heart of Banyuls terroir and 3 hectares in Alberes’ hills between sea and mountains. She has some young Grenache whilst Mourvèdre and centenarian Carignan vines make up her vineyard. Having been farmed organically since 2005 Yoyo has been certified since 2008. She vinifies with her partner Jean Francois Nicq from Domaine «Les Foulards Rouges» . Laurence “Yoyo” Krief takes Nicq’s natural wine philosophy even further. Le Domaine Yoyo comprises four hectares planted on seven parcels in the heart of the cru of Banyuls ranging from adolescent Grenache vines to exuberant young Mourvedre and much-treasured centenarian Carignan deeply rooted in black schists plus a further three hectares on the footslopes des Albères between the sea and the mountain. The domaine has been practising organic viticulture since 2005 and certified since 2008. No chemical products in the vines, organic and vegetal remedies are used including marc from grapeskins and sheep manure. The vineyards of Banyuls cannot be mechanically farmed. The work on the soil must be done by means of animal traction (using a horse in combination with their mule) as well as a pickaxe. Restake Vin Blanc is Grenache Gris and Blanc from a vineyard at 350 m altitude facing due north. Grapes are hand harvested (15 hl/ha) whereupon they are pressed directly. The wine ferments naturally with their yeasts in inox tanks before being transferred into barriques around spring time. KM3 is a stunning wine composed of 80% Grenache Gris. 10% Grenache Noir and 10% Carignan from 100 + year old vines from tiny yields (10 hl/ha). The must undergoes a semi- carbonic maceration for one month and pigeage before devatting. The fermentation then takes place in a tronconic wooden vessel before being matured in four-year-old barriques and demi-muids for a further 10 months. No sulphur is added. Akoibon is Mourvèdre 40 %, Grenache Noir 60% which has a three-week carbonic maceration. At the end of the ferment the wine stays in inox vats and barriques of four to five years. La Tranchée is described as “Une pure Soula de Grenache Noir” (27 ans). Yields clock in at a tiny 15 hectolitres per hectare. After a cold prefermentation and 20-day carbonic maceration for 20 days the wine is matured in barriques. La Negra Vin de France Millésimé Albères comes from a co-planted vineyard of the three Grenaches (Noir, Gris and Blanc) for 70% of the blend plus 30% old vines Carignan (80 years) located in a granitic amphitheatre at the foot of Alberes. Three weeks of carbonic maceration then pigeage before devatting, pressing and into barriques to mature. All the wines benefit from a short period in the carafe, and once emerged from their reductive veil, exhibit wonderfully bright fruit and mineral energy of old vines on great terroir, minimally handled. . 2015
VIN DE FRANCE RESTAKE BLANC W
2015 VIN DE FRANCE AKOIBON ROUGE R
VIN DE FRANCE KM31 ROUGE R
2015 VIN DE FRANCE KM31 - magnum R
VIN DE FRANCE LA NEGRA ROUGE R
2015 VIN DE FRANCE LA TRANCHEE ROUGE R
DOMAINE DE MAJAS, AGNES & ALAIN CARRERE, Côtes du Roussillon – Organic
The vines from Domaine de Majas are located in the Fenouillèdes area between 350-400 metres above sea level, on clay- limestone and schist soils. The wines are fermented with native yeasts and minimal intervention in cement vats, resulting in freshness of fruit and lively minerality. The Macabeu-Rolle (with some Carignan Blanc) is grippy, tangy and flavoursome with lime peel notes and dried fruits and herbs. The red, a Carignan/Grenache blend from 20-120 year old vines is a delightful surprise. Limpid-red this shiny wine has lifted aromas of ripe blueberry and red cherries as well as supporting notes of herbs and crushed stones. The fruit carries on all the way supported by pleasing acidity. Tom Lubbe’s benign influence is clear here. 2016
COTES CATALANES BLANC W
2016 COTES CATALANES ROUGE R
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ROUSSILLON Continued…
In 2001 Tom Lubbe purchased a small vineyard high up in the hills of the Coteaux du Fenouillèdes, in the Roussillon region of France, called Clos Matassa. The vineyard was a hillside plot planted with old-vine Carignan, and because of the altitude, 450 metres, the growing season is around a month longer than the lower vineyards in this warm region. Soils are schist and slate surrounded by garrigue. Lubbe has experience of making wine in both France and South Africa and is renowned for making fascinating Observatory Syrah from the Swartland region of South Africa. From 1999–2002 he made wine at Domaine Gauby, a celebrated estate that’s led the way in this part of the Roussillon. Vineyard management here employs biodynamics, and the winemaking here is aiming to be as natural as possible. The only addition is a bit of sulphur dioxide, and handling is gentle. Elevage is in a mix of 500-litre demi-muids and 228 litre pieces.. They are all old vine vineyards, with half high up in the Coteaux des Fenouillèdes and the other half around the village of Calce, lower down (at around 150 m). Lubbe says that the lower vineyards contribute power and the higher ones minerality and finesse. Matassa Blanc, made from 70% Grenache Gris and 30% Maccabeu, yields a mere 15hl/ha, hand harvested in early morning to preserve freshness and acidity. The wine is whole bunch pressed in a wooden basket press and is fermented with indigenous yeasts in foudre and barrel and then aged on the lees for 14 months. Lovely toasty, aromatic minerally nose is sophisticated with a lovely reductive edge. There are minerals, some spice and some flint. The palate is ripe and full with lovely freshness and minerality.
2016
COTES CATALANES BLANC W
2016 COTES CATALANES BLANC “MARGUERITE” W
CUVEE ALEXANDRIA W
2016 COUME DE L’OLLA ROUGE R
ROMANISSA CASOT R
2016 COTES CATALANES ROUGE R
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ROUSSILLON Continued…
LES CLOS DE PAULILLES, MAISON CAZES, Collioure - Biodynamic J’ai bu l’été comme un vin doux – Louis Aragon
2015
COLLIOURE “LES CLOS DE PAULILLES” R
2014 BANYULS RIMAGE “LES CLOS DE PAULILLES” – 50cl Sw
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