Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
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- ALSACE
- DOMAINE KUMPF MEYER, JULIEN ALBERTUS, Rosheim, Alsace - Organic
- DOMAINE ENGEL, Vins d’Alsace - Organic
- DOMAINE GERARD SCHUELLER, BRUNO SCHUELLER, Husseren-Lès-Châteaux – Biodynamic
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2016
GAMAY “CUVEE DES GOURMETS” R
2016 LE POYCELAN ROUGE R
VOLCANIQUE ROUGE R
IN PRAISE OF FUNK Thou hast shewed thy people hard Things: thou hast made us to drink The wine of astonishment
Some wines are so naughty they deserve to be put in honorary detention. Take the Gamay from the Auvergne (take it, I say), superlatively cloudy, reductive, oozing zum zuyder aromas of fermenting apples. Wild thing/You make my heart sing. The murky wine, vitally raw, prickles and dances, nettles the furthest outposts of your tongue with lancing acidity. 95% of the drinking populace would pucker up on acquaintance with this rude fluid, for it prompts the question: is the wine meant to taste like that? Why not go further: is wine ever meant to taste like that? We’ve heard of nature red in tooth and claw, but most would prefer the tooth and claw filtered out. Call me perverse, but we live such mappined lives, that it is salutary, refreshing and darn therapeutic to glimpse life on the wilder shores, in this case, a wine that does not conform to our notion of tutti-frutti correctness. As Ralph Waldo Emerson says: “A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds.”
I wonder who laid down the primer for correct and incorrect wine. It is the coldly reductive logic of the Consumer Acceptance Panel which ignores the fact that individuality and unpredictability are what makes wine a living drink. Our list would be a pale shadow if it were missing wines from Cousin-Leduc, Gramenon, Bera, Princic, La Stoppa, Bea and Valentini. To some these may be the taste equivalent of Joan Crawford’s fingernails scratching the underside of an iron coffin, but to others a welcome diversion from the smart, prinked, clean-chopped- identikit- oenologically-smoothed clones that bestride the supermarket shelves.
We love these wines for their faults; in fact their faults make them what they are. Made with wild yeasts, handled gently without filtration or addition of sulphur, the wines are alive, constantly in flux, rarely the same one day to the next.
- 132 - ALSACE And the jessamine faint, and the sweet tuberose/ The sweetest flower for scent that blows. – Percy Bysshe Shelley
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The Alternative Wine Glossary
enchantment of the spice bazaar. There is a touch of residual sugar here, more than offset by mouth-charming acidity – check out the Turkish delight and rosewater aromas on this one! The Holzweg, from a vineyard in the picturesque village of Husseren-lès-Châteaux, and grown on a limestone-clay plot, is more restrained and seemingly drier with thick, buttery fruit – definitely a food wine. Recently it has soared to new heights: “Fine intense floral notes both on the nose, extraordinarily long and aromatic finish” enthused the Hachette jury who awarded it Coup de Coeur. Equally adept battling chilli fire or choucroute garni. Consider also Scherer’s late harvested wines; redolent of pineapples, mint, dates and honey these provide toothsome accompaniments to foie gras, roast goose and fresh fruit.
2016 PINOT BLANC RESERVE W
2016 RIESLING RESERVE W
PINOT GRIS RESERVE W
2016 GEWURZTRAMINER RESERVE W
GEWURZTRAMINER “HOLZWEG” W
2008 GEWURZTRAMINER PFERSIGBERG GRAND CRU, VENDANGES TARDIVES – 50 cl Sw
GEWURZTRAMINER EICHBERG GRAND CRU, SELECTION DE GRAINS NOBLES – 50 cl Sw
DOMAINE PIERRE FRICK, Pfaffenheim – Biodynamic
Second Yorkshireman: Nothing like a good glass of Château de Chasselas, eh, Josiah? Third Yorkshireman: You’re right there, Obadiah. Monty Python: Four Yorkshiremen
biodiversity in the vineyard to hand harvesting all the grapes to using little and even no sulphur during the winemaking to ageing in large old oak casks, Jean-Pierre aspires to capture the essence of the grape and also the flavour of the terroir. His Chasselas (the grape originates in Switzerland), vinified without the addition of sulphur, is left on the lees. It is quite vinous reminiscent of greengage, mirabelle plums and dried banana. The Riesling is dry with hints of blackcurrant bud, tobacco and mineral – impressively lively in the mouth. The Pinot Gris is typically round and rich: think plum jam, caramel and apple compote: try with cheese. The Riesling Grand Cru is a wine of considerable complexity and develops intriguingly in the glass. Notes here of praline, vanilla and mineral; it opens to reveal yellow fruits and menthol and has a long, fresh, almost salty finish with flickering minerality. The unsulphured Pinot Noir Rot Murl has beautiful discreet aromas of cassis, griotte cherries, grenadine and spice .
2016 CHASSELAS VINIFIE SANS SOUFRE W
2008/12 SYLVANER BERGWEINGARTEN W
RIESLING BIHL W
2009 GEWURZTRAMINER ROT MURL W
PINOT GRIS VINIFIE SANS SOUFRE W
2016 PINOT GRIS MACERATION GRAND CRU VORBOURG SANS SOUFRE Or
RIESLING ROT MURL VINIFIE AVEC SOUFRE W
2014 RIESLING GRAND CRU VORBOURG W
RIESLING GRAND CRU STEINERT SANS SOUFRE W
2011 RIESLING ROT MURL VENDANGES TARDIVES W
PINOT NOIR ROT MURL VINIFIE SANS SOUFRE R
- 133 - ALSACE Continued…
The ability to tell your Alsace from your Elbling is the raisin (sic) d’être of a wine connoisseur -
This well-regarded Alsace domaine is run by two brothers, Maurice and Jacky Barthelmé in the village of Wettolsheim, near Colmar. Maurice, who took over here in 1984, is married to the daughter of the late Albert Mann who gave his name to the domaine. It’s not a huge operation: they have 22 hectares in all, but five of these are in five different Grand Cru vineyards and a further two are in lieux-dits. All the wines from the Pinot Auxerrois to the stunning SGNs are fabulous, but we were particularly taken with the wonderful Schlossberg Riesling, which is a brilliantly tightly focused, mineral interpretation of this great grape. With a pale gold colour the Schlossberg combines power and finesse. Apple, spice, mineral and wax integrate with the sinewy structure and rich texture. The length of this wine is extraordinary. The Riesling tradition is more of a vin de fruit. It has an attractive musky nose and a tranquil palate with ripe pear and apple offset by cleansing notes of mandarin. “In the same way that a basketball team exhibits good teamwork, winemaking duties are shared between the two Barthelmé brothers, each of whom stands a good 6’6” (Jacky is at least 6’7” and plays semi-pro basketball, a fact well-known in the French press, and thus the basketball analogy). While one brother is in the vineyard, the other is in the caves. Using the best organic methods, their domaine is guided by rules of art, with carefully controlled yields, to obtain grapes of elevated maturity with rich and complex substance. These superb grapes are then transformed in a chai of gleaming stainless steel, conceived in the style of an American winery, which allows the production of wines that are clean and pure and where often the initial rich constitution of the grapes comes to light. In this modern oenology their clay-limestone soils seem to be especially favoured because of their structure…” Revue du Vin de France The Muscat tradition is a very giood example of the grape; it exhibits fresh grapey aroma with some vibrant summer white fruits and hint of blossom. The dry palate is defined by a natural acidity and a focus structure. The Pinot Gris tradition is pale straw in colour, with a full, up-front bouquet of honeyed tropical fruits, yellow stonefuits, pears and spices. Off-dryish, the palate was soft and rounded with accessible fruit and a touch of alcohol warmth showing. An excellent expression of the variety. Cuvée Albert has Soil-driven aromas of smoke, butter and pastry dough. Broad and sweet but with almost mineral-like acid grip and a saline element giving it a sappy quality. Finishes with a slight peppery quality . Light golden hued straw yellow, the Gewurz has a classic bouquet of ginger, lychee and spices, intense and fresh. Off dry on palate, this wine possesses a floral and spice amalgam of flavours with a little alcohol warmth. Attractive and accessible. The Furstentum weighs in at 13.5% alc and 31 g/l rs, made from fruit from vines more than 50 y.o., from two parcels. Even straw yellow in colour this has a tightly bound bouquet of florals and minerals, a characteristic of these lighter grand cru soils. Off- dry on the palate, this is a taut wine; stylish and elegant, yet with intensity and richness. Very fine texture for Gewurztraminer, with no coarse blowsiness at all.
2016 PINOT BLANC/AUXERROIS TRADITION W
2016 RIESLING TRADITION W
MUSCAT TRADITION W
2015 PINOT GRIS TRADITION W
PINOT GRIS CUVEE ALBERT W
2015 GEWURZTRAMINER TRADITION W
GEWURZTRAMINER GRAND CRU “FURSTENTUM” W
2015 RIESLING GRAND CRU “SCHLOSSBERG” W
RIESLING GRAND CRU “SCHLOSSBERG” – magnum W
2012 PINOT NOIR GRAND P R
DOMAINE KUMPF & MEYER, JULIEN ALBERTUS, Rosheim, Alsace - Organic
passing through 5 communes. There are various "terroirs" in the different areas of. Keeping the vines healthy is achieved whilst keeping the use of chemicals to a strict minimum. The domaine adheres to the charter "Tyflo" which is administered by Ecocert. Following these principles, the various summer tasks are performed successively during July and August: - de- budding, tying and training, removing excess bunches where necessary to promote the quality of the remaining grapes (vendange en vert), and thinning the leaves.
2015 Y A PLUS QU’A – Sylvaner, Auxerrois W
2015 RIESLING W
- 134 - DOMAINE CHRISTIAN BINNER, Ammerschwihr– Biodynamic The Binner family has owned vines in Alsace since 1770 and today they practice organic and biodynamic agriculture, neither fine nor filter the wine, use only natural yeasts, use minimal sulphur, etc… That is Caves de Pyrène mood music. All the wines are aged in 100 year old big foudres and undergo malolactic fermentation. The average vine age is 35-years-old, with 40% over 60 years old, and plenty that have entered their second century of productivity. Christian Binner has an excellent slice of land in and around the Kaefferkopf Grand Cru, close to his home village of Ammerschwihr on a terroir of colluvial granitic top soil over a marly bedrock. The Binners own nine hectares in total, with only six planted to vine and estate, as mentioned, has been chemical-free for over two decades. They harvest in October, later on average than any of their neighbours, with patience that allows for fully ripe fruit and resulting complexity of flavour in the bottled wines. They also strive to vinify as naturally as possible with a minimum of sulphur addition, preferable not even at bottling. To manage, one has to make a wine that is as biochemically stable as possible. This is accomplished by fermenting as much as sugar as possible, allowing malolactic transformation and storing and bottling the wine under reductive conditions keeping some carbon dioxide in the wine at all stages. The result is aromatic and dry wines with a lot of personality and somewhat unpredictable character. As it should be… Les Saveurs, a blend of Riesling, Pinot Gris and Muscat is aromatic and textured, a fruit basket of apples, poached pears and grapes. The baby Riesling d’Ammmerschwihr is properly hazy with some leesy notes and primary flavours of butter lemon, linden and soft orchard fruits. A lovely wine for any occasion. Ratchet up the intensity a notch or two for the Riesling K Non Filtré which exhibits that charged Kaefferkopf terroir. A deep golden wine with gorgeous minerality underpinning the spiced apple fruit. Let’s examine the terroir of Kaefferkopf that gives the signature flavours to Binner’s wines. South-east-facing or south-facing slopes on a terroir that is blessed with a very complex geology, comprising some quite heavy soil types, even in areas that that contain both granite and sandstone, a heaviness that is due to a subterranean layer of Loess limestone. This presence of limestone in areas with acidic soils(granite and sandstone) is perhaps the explanation of the style of the wines: (powerful, thanks to the limestone), and very elegant( thanks to the presence of acidic rocks). Kaefferkopf L’Originel is a true expression of terroir. It is only of the only Grand Crus in Alsace where different grape varieties are allowed to be blended. In this case 60% Gewurztraminer meshes brilliantly with 25% Riesling and 15% Muscat. The hills that ripen Binner’s Pinot Noir are a geologic melange of limestone, sand, clay, even some loess, gypsum, schist. You name it. So minerality abounds in the reds of central Alsace, and thanks to being warmer, sunnier and drier than land to the west of the Vosges, pleasantly ripe and still delicate red wine can be grown here. This wine reminds one of cranberries, strawberries and fresh, savoury herbs, mostly thyme. Béatrice is equally lovely with a tad extra oomph.
2013
MUSCAT SEC W
2014 RIESLING LE SALON DES BAINS W
COTES D’AMOURSCHWIHR W
2014 PINOT NOIR R
PINOT NOIR “CUVEE BEATRICE” R
2013 PINOT NOIR “CUVEE BEATRICE” – magnum R
DOMAINE ENGEL, Vins d’Alsace - Organic
same time helps organic and biodynamic grape growers in Alsace move away from selling their grapes to cooperatives towards making and bottling natural wines. Each cuvée is made at a young grower’s winery. They supply the grapes and Christian supplies his 20 years of expertise in making natural wine in Alsace, and of course his marketing and distribution savvy. Each cuvée will feature the name of the grower on the bottle .
and second on the sorting table in the winery. One third of the grapes are fermented with the stems for about 10 days and two thirds are destemmed and fermented with the skins for abot 15 days. Everything is fermented with indigenous yeast and zero sulfur, and a very small amount of pumping over is performed. Elevage on the lees for for one year and bottled with zero addition of sulphur. Unfined and unfiltered .
2015 PIROUETTES LES SAVEURS DE JULIEN W
PIROUETTES PINOT NOIR GLOUGLOU – 1 litre R
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2014
SYLVANER W
2014 RIESLING PARTICULIERE W
RIESLING “LE VERRE EST DANS LE FRUIT” W
2014 RIESLING “BILDSTOEKLE” W
PINOT GRIS RESERVE W
2014 GEWURZTRAMINER PARTICULIERE W
GEWURZTRAMINER BILDSTOEKLE TIREE SPECIALE W
2012 GEWUZTRAMINER “BILDSTOEKLE” W
GEWURZTRAMINER PIGEE W
2014 PINOT NOIR R
PINOT NOIR “LN” R
2013 PINOT NOIR “LN” - magnum R
PINOT NOIR “BILDSTOEKLE” R
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