Marketing Strategy and Competitive Positioning pdf ebook
CHAPTER 6 Luxury fashion group to
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- Moncler scraps catwalk shows for the social media generation By Rachel Sanderson in Milan
CHAPTER 6
Luxury fashion group to target millennials with ‘flash’ events and online collections Moncler, the luxury goods com- pany behind €1,000 puffa jackets, is closing its twice-yearly catwalk shows as smartphones revolution- ise the industry with consumers clamouring to see new fashions more frequently online. The decision by Remo Ruffini, founder and chief executive of Moncler, who in 10 years turned Moncler from a bombed-out French skiwear brand into a com- pany with a market value of near €6bn, also will result in the exit of designers Thom Browne and Giambattista Valli. In an interview with the Financial Times, Mr Ruffini, 56, said the pair had done ‘an amazing job’ in the past eight years but consumers’ changing shopping habits meant he needed ‘a new and different energy’. After ending the Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu catwalk shows following this winter’s collections, Mr Ruffini said his biggest stores would become the venues for more frequent launches of new designs, as often as every two months. ‘I believe in creating a new energy for the con- sumer at the sales points and communicating as fast as possible,’ said Mr Ruffini at Moncler’s newly Moncler scraps catwalk shows for the social media generation By Rachel Sanderson in Milan Instead of fashion shows, Moncler will stage one-off spectacular events that target social media Source : © Reuters. 141 INTRODUCTION Introduction The attractiveness of opportunities open to a firm depends on the resources available to exploit them. Organisational resources include both tangible and intangible assets, capa- bilities and competences. This is the base from which organisations build their competi- tive position, and any marketing strategy needs to be firmly grounded in these resources. Strategies that are not built on resource strength are unlikely to be sustainable in the longer term, and under-utilised resources represent potential wastage. To succeed in a particular market, the firm will need specific resources – the key factors for success in that market. If it does not have these, or cannot acquire them, the strategy is likely to fail at the imple- mentation stage. This chapter is structured around the following issues, which provide a framework for assessing organisational resources: ● the role of marketing resources in creating differentiation; ● insights from the resource-based view (RBV) of the firm, and in particular the more recent emphasis on dynamic capabilities; ● creating and exploiting marketing assets; ● deploying dynamic marketing capabilities; ● developing and exploiting the resource portfolio. This is shown schematically in Figure 6.1 , starting from the most general issues and moving progressively to the more specific. opened flagship store in Milan, which is designed to feel like an Alpine chalet. Instead of fashion shows, Moncler will stage one- off spectacular events that target social media. The group is holding a ‘flash art’ event in Hong Kong this week, which will see 12,000 Moncler mascots in different locations around the city. The event has been organised with Instagram and other social media in mind. Mr Ruffini said he was also considering plans to create the ‘kind of energy’ found in upscale multi- brand stores such as Los Angeles-based Maxfield and London’s Dover Street Market, ‘where you find designers one next to another’. Nonetheless, he denied market speculation he plans to acquire luxury rivals. Mr Ruffini, a university drop out, built Moncler’s success by spotting the trend for luxury casual wear. ‘Casualisation’ is one of the main trends driving growth in the €250bn luxury industry, according to Bain & Company. The move by Moncler follows a week of C-suite turmoil across the industry as brands seek new managers to adapt their businesses to millennial and Generation Z shoppers, who it is estimated will make up nearly half of luxury consumers by 2025. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods group, last week announced the exit of Sidney Toledano, long- time chief executive at Dior, to bring in Fendi chief Pietro Beccari; at Italy’s Tod’s, billionaire founder Diego Della Valle handed over operational manage- ment to former LVMH and Bulgari manager Umberto Macchi di Cellere; and Swiss group Richemont ele- vated Jerome Lambert to chief operating officer and named Emmanuel Perrin, a former director at Cartier, as head of distribution for its watch brands. Mr Ruffini says one of the biggest tests for the industry is adapting to the Chinese social media platform WeChat, where shopping is integrated within the chat platform. If technology in the US and Europe is moving fast, ‘in China they are going incredibly fast,’ he said. Source : from ‘Moncler scraps catwalk shows for the social media generation’, Financial Times , 13/11/17 (Sanderson, R.). Discussion questions 1 Why is Moncler closing its twice-yearly catwalk? 2 What have been, and are, the implications for the company’s resources? |
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