Nizomiy nomidagi toshkent davlat pedagogika u n IV e r sit e t t n. S. Gaipova, M. Z. Ismatullayeva, A. S. Axmetova
K o‘ylakni so‘ngi pardozlash va so ‘ngi namlab-isitib ishlash
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Tikuvchilik texnologiyasi asoslari. Gaipova N.S
5.17.K o‘ylakni so‘ngi pardozlash va so ‘ngi namlab-isitib ishlash
K o‘ylakda izmalar m o‘ljallangan b o ‘lsa, andaza q o ‘yib izma joylari belgilanadi va maxsus m ashinada y o ‘rm aladi. Ipli izm alar 3-4 qavat ip tortib, keyin uni xalqa qaviq solib y o ‘rm ash yo ‘li bilan q o ‘lda hosil qilinadi. Bunday izm alarning uzunligi tu g m alar o ‘lcham iga bog‘liq b o ‘ladi. T em ir ilgaklam ing izmalari esa 0 ,4 -0 ,5 sm b o ‘ladi, kiyimni tikib boMgandan keyin ortiq cha i p lar qirqib tashlanadi, k o ‘ylakning o ‘ngidagi b o ‘rlangan chiziqlar o ‘chirib tashlanadi. N am lab - isitib ishlov berish u ch u n oldin d etallarn in g (bort, belbog‘, yoqa) chetlari nam lab to ‘g‘rilanadi va batam om quriguncha dazm ollanadi. K iyim ning choklari yorib dazm ollanadi, taxlam alari, b o ‘rtm a choklari dazm ollanadi. K o‘ylaklam i so‘ngi dazm ollashni bug‘li havo m anekenida bajarish ham m um kin. K o‘ylak te sk a risid a n d a z m o lla n a d ig a n b o ‘lsa, d a z m o lm a to ishlatilm aydi. 0 ‘ngidan esa oq gazlam adan d azm o lm a to q o ‘yib dazm ollanadi. Yoqa, m anjet, belbog‘lar ostki tom o nid an dazm ollanadi. ADABIYOTLAR R O ‘YXATI 1. Ja b b o ro v a M .S h . “T ik u v ch ilik te x n o lo g iy a si” . T o sh k e n t “O 'zbekiston” . 1994y. 2. Tnixanova A.T. “Tikuvchilik texnologiyasi asoslari” . Toshkent “0 ‘qituvchi” . 1996 y. 3. Litvinova I.N ., Shaxova Y aA . “Ayollar ust kiyimini tikish” Toshkent “ 0 ‘qituvchi” . 1997 y. 4. Glinskaya Ye.V. “Azbukavishivaniya” Toshkent “ M ehnat” . 1994y. M U N D A R 1JA I BOB. T IK U V C h lL I K B U Y u M L A R I H A Q I DA U M U M I Y M A ’L U M O T L A R ................................................................................... 4 1.1. K iyim ning vazifalari va sin fla n ish i................................................. 4 1.2. T ukuvchilik buyum larini tikishning asosiy b o sq ich lari............ 6 1.3. Tikuvchilik ustaxonalarida ish o ‘rnini tashkil q ilish .................. 7 1.4. Havfsizlik texnikasi q o id a lari........................................................... 7 II BOB. Q O ‘LDA BA JA RILA D IGA N ISH LA R ............................9 2.1. Q o‘l ishlari uchun ish o ‘m ini tashkil q ilish ............................... 9 2.2. Q o 'ld a bajariladigan ishlar u ch u n asboblar va i p l a r ............ 10 2.3. Q o ‘lda bajariladigan ishlam ing asosiy u s u lla ri...........................13 2.4. Q o ‘lda bajariladigan ish tu r la r i...................................................... 14 2.5. T o ‘g ‘ri qaviqlar................................................................................... 16 2.6. Qiya qaviqlar........................................................................................19 2.7. Iroqsim on q aviq lar............................................................................21 2.8. Xalqasim on q a v iq la r........................................................................ 21 2.9. Petlya qaviqlar..................................................................................... 22 2.10. Tugm a ch atish ................................................................................... 23 2.11. Bezak qaviqlar....................................................................................24 III BOB. M A SH IN A D A BA JA RILA D IGA N IS H L A R ............. 28 3.1. Tikuv m ashinasining yaratilish ta rix i......................................... 28 3.2. Bir ipli zanjirsim on choklarning hosil b o ‘lish i.......................31 3.3. Ikki ipli zanjirsim on chokning hosil b o i i s h i ...........................32 3.4. Tikuv m ashinalari haqida m a ’lu m o t........................................... 33 3.5. Tikuv m ashinasining tuzilishi va asosiy m ex an izm lari..........36 3.6. Tikuv m ashinasi ignalarining tuzilishi va sin flan ish i...............37 3.7. Tikuv m ashinalari ishidagi n u q s o n la r........................................39 3.8. M a sh in ad a b ajarila d ig an ish la r u c h u n ish 0 ‘rn in i tashk il q i l i s h ........................................................................................................... 39 3.9. M ashina ch ok turlari...........................................................................40 3.10. Ziy c h o k la r........................................................................................ 43 3.11. Bezak c h o k la r...................................................................................45 3.12. T axlam alar.........................................................................................46 IV BOB. T IK U V C H IL K B U Y U M LA R IN 1 N AM LA B-IS1T1B ISH L A S H ................................................................................................... 48 4.1. N am lab — isitib ishlash jihozlari va m oslam alari.........................48 4.2. Detallam i termofiksatsiyalash to ‘g‘risida qisqacha m a’lum ot ...51 V BOB. KIYIM D ET A L L A R IG A ISHLOV B E R IS H ............ ...53 5.1. K iyim ning m ayda detallarini tik is h ...............................................53 5.2. C h o ‘ntakqopqoqlam i t i k is h ...........................................................55 5.3. Yengil kiyimdagi c h o ‘n ta k q o p q o q la r..........................................57 5.4. Tikuv buyum larida ishlatiladigan bezak m ateriallarni tikish .60 5.5. V itachkalarga ishlov berish ............................................................63 5.6. Petlyalarni is h la s h ............................................................................ 68 5.7. Q oplam a ch o 'n ta k k a ishlov b e ris h ................................................72 5.8. Bortlarga ishlov b e r is h .................................................................... 76 5.9. Taqilm alarga ishlov berish ............................................................. 78 5.10 .B ostirm a qopqoqli ta q ilm a ......................................................... 79 5.11. «Molniya» tasmali ta q ilm a la r......................................................80 5.12. B o'yin o ‘miziga ishlov berish u su llari.......................................87 5.13. Eng o ‘miziga ishlov b e r is h ........................................................... 91 5.14. Englarga ishlov berish va o'm izga o ‘tq a z is h ............................. 92 5.15. K o‘ylakning bel qismiga ishlov b e rish .................................... 101 5.16. K o‘ylakning etak qismiga ishlov b e r is h ..................................103 5.17. K o‘ylakni so‘ngi pardozlash va so‘ngi nam lab-isitib ishlash... 104 ATAM ALAR L U G ‘A T I ......................................................................106 ADAB1YOTLAR R O ‘Y X A T I............................................................ 108 |
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