Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
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- The Grape Harvest
- The Treading of the Grapes
- TOSCANA
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- 260 - TOSCANA Continued…
IL PARADISO DI MANFREDI, MONTALCINO, Toscana – Biodynamic Il Paradiso di Manfredi is a tiny estate of 2.5 ha in the heart of Montalcino. In the 50s Manfredi worked for the famous Biondi Santi estate. In 1958 he bought Il Paradiso di Manfredi where there were more olive trees than vines and indeed in that period in Montalcino the olive oil production was higher than the wine production. Initially they were harvesting around10000 kg of olives each year but at the beginning of the 60’s a big freeze destroyed all the olive trees and Manfredi decided to replant everything with vines. In 1982 Manfredi died, and Florio, Manfred’s son in law, decided to work on the estate full time. Florio had always been passionate about wine and helped Manfredi, but his main job hitherto had been as a maths teacher. Il Paradiso di Manfredi today is one of the best expressions of traditional Brunello di Montalcino. Viticulture and vineyard rhythm is effectively biodynamic. Pesticides and weedkillers are eschewed, the waxing and waning of the moon determines activity in the vineyard and the winery. They hand-pick the grapes (yields are around 42hl/ha) ,the wild ferment takes place in concrete vats (no temperature control… ) after which the wine spends 36/40 months in big casks of Slavonia oak (25/ /30 hl ). By law a Brunello di Montalcino may be ready for the market in January five years after the harvest … for Florio a Brunello is ready when… it is ready. Truly a Grolsch moment. For example, they are now releasing together 2002 and 2000 vintages and bottling the prized 2001 vintage just for us, because we are the sort of impatient school kids who just can’t wait for a good thing. Florio also produces a Rosso di Montalcino from the same vineyard… the only difference between the two wines is the period that it spends in wood (usually ten to twelve months). The wines are everything you hope for great Sangiovese displaying wicked wild cherry fruit along with notes of herbs, leather, liquorice, pepper and spice and nascent prune, tar and tobacco aromas. It’s so savoury that the food you are thinking of cooks and present itself at the table. 2015
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO R
2010 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO R
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO – magnum R
2007 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA R
thunder, yet each grape containeth within itself a measure of joy and dancing, the quick merry blood of the earth.
red. The master of the vineyard, he goeth about the streets in the last of the sun, bargaining as such as sit idle against the wall and them that throw dice in the dust. For the grape harvest must be ingathered.
he had endured a terrible battle, himself scatheless. And still more and more grapes are brought to the press where he laboureth, this hero.
death. Put thy ear against the vat, thou hearest a ceaseless murmur, a slow full suspiration. The juice is clothing itself in sound, in song, in psalmody.
From A Treading of Grapes – George MacKay Brown
- 261 - TOSCANA Continued…
Sir John Harington PIAN DELL’ORINO, CAROLINE POBITZER & JAN HENDRIK ERBACH, MONTALCINO, Toscana – Biodynamic This estate is adjacent to the Biondi Santi property and the area has a long history of being particularly suited for growing grapes for high quality wines. “Our love for Tuscany and passion for viticulture binds us particularly to this land, our vines and the resulting wines”. The wines come from four different vineyards that add up to a total area of six hectares. Right from the beginning Caroline and Jan studied the soil and the structure of each vineyard in order to fully understand its characteristics. Fossils, petrified shells and chalk sediment all testify to the earth’s evolutions and recount marine flooding and periods of drought in the area. To preserve the special identity of their vineyards they assiduously follow organic practises. Farming is only organic if it respects and protects the complex correlations and the equilibrium of a habitat. From the start the goal is to create and sustain the maximum harmony possible between vineyard, climate, soil and mankind. They encapsulate their philosophy thus: “Energy has great importance in the organisation of our daily work. In particular the phases of the moon – which affect nature and the life of all creatures, regulate growth and reinforce quality – are an important point of reference on our decision making. Our vines have never been treated with herbicides, chemical pesticides, insecticides or soluble mineral fertilisers. Their immune system is reinforced by special infusions that we make with nettles, equisetum and yarrow and biodynamic preparations. We use propolis to protect the vine from infections caused by fungi and bacteria. We plant many kinds of grasses, including aromatic varieties, in order to encourage biodiversity, maintain the contents of the humus and improve the soil structure. In our vineyards bees and butterflies have an infinite choice of beautiful flowers. “Our goal is to fully understand the diverse characteristics of the vineyards that we cultivate. To this end we separate the grapes picked from each vineyard during the vinification in order to make separate wines. The work we do in the vineyards is an important way of getting to know the vines themselves at close hand. “Our shared mother is the land that nourishes us, and together we grow with what she offers” (Béla Hamvas). “We are very attached to the land on which our vineyards grow. The soil itself gives us strength and inspires us to respect nature and the environment. The grapes are pruned between flowering and their changing colour, leaving no more than four bunches per vine. Before the harvest, the grapes are controlled once again on the vine in order to eliminate any single grape that is mouldy due to meteorological conditions or imperfect in any way. This same control is repeated throughout the harvest.” Bravo, you may say and you would be correct. The mature and carefully selected grapes are picked by hand and taken to the cellar in crates that contain only twenty kilos each. The final selection takes place on a large table, before the grapes are placed in the de-stemmer and, at last, into the barrels for vinification. The fermentation at Pian dell’Orino is induced by naturally occurring yeasts from the grape skins. Spontaneous fermentation starts between one and three days from the harvest, depending on the vintage. No extra yeasts, no industrial enzymes or further additives are used. Brunello di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese Grosso. Before harvest, the grapes are individually checked on the vines and cluster thinning is done. During harvest, the grapes are checked once more on a large table before being destalked and placed in the fermentation bins. Then the grapes are left to macerate for a certain period, according to the vintage. Spontaneous fermentation starts and the temperature is automatically controlled so that it does not exceed 34°C. The must macerates for three to five weeks, depending on the vintage, in order to obtain greater concentration and structure in the young wine. The wine is then transferred to wooden oak barrels of 25 hectolitres where the malolactic fermentation takes effect. After 2 – 3 years of maturing in the barrels, when the wine becomes stabilized and appears brilliant, it is bottled without filtration. The wine is left to mature in the bottle for at least one year before labelling and release. The Rosso di Montalcino is made from pure Sangiovese. The grapes are selected in the same way as for the Brunello di Montalcino. The difference is found in the wine-making. Spontaneous fermentation starts after one or two days of maceration. The temperature is automatically controlled so that it does not exceed 30°C. The must macerates for two or three weeks, depending on the vintage, in order to obtain mainly fruity flavours and finesse. Once fermentation has concluded, the wine is transferred to barriques and small 500-litre barrels, where the malolactic fermentation takes place.
2014
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO R
2011 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO R
BRUNELLO BASSOLINO DI SOPRA R
- 262 -
Continued…
Assumptions like bigger is better; you can’t stop progress; no speed is too fast; globalization is good. Then we have to replace them with some different assumptions: small is beautiful; roots and traditions are worth preserving; variety is the spice of life; the only work worth doing is meaningful work; biodiversity is the necessary pre-condition for human survival.
Robert Bateman
MONTEVERTINE, MARTINO MANETTI, RADDA IN CHIANTI, Toscana Montevertine is a small Chianti estate of eleven hectares, first planted in 1967 by Sergio Manetti assisted by legendary oenologist Giulio Gambelli. By 1981 Manetti was finding the DOC Chianti too restrictive (producers were not allowed to use 100% Sangiovese and were required to blend in white grape varieties), so he decided instead to produce a premium Tuscan wine that he hoped would convey the terroir of his site, particularly with Sangiovese. Thus he withdrew from the Chianti Consorzio, and Le Pergole Torte Vino da Tavola was born. Today, his son Martino remains committed to developing Montevertine following his father’s recipe: 100% Sangiovese grapes, harvested late, fermented in cement tanks without temperature control, macerated on skins for 25 days, then matured in Slavonian oak for 18 months with a further six in French allier barriques. Eric Asimov, the wine critic for the New York Times, wrote the following about Montevertine and it’s a sentiment we share completely: “Sometimes I fall in love with a producer from the moment I first taste his wine. I know, I sound gullible. But really, if you can sense a purity, a commitment, and of course deliciousness and complexity, why hold back?” Le Pergole Torte is a profound soliloquy for Sangiovese. Named after the tiny 2-hectare vineyard from which it comes, Le Pergole Torte has one of the coolest microclimates in the region, giving the wine a shivering energy, a precision to balance the wine’s obvious power. Le Pergole Torte is only made in top vintages; it is always 100% Sangiovese. If there is truly tremendous clarity to the wine, an articulation of nuance – dark berry fruit, dried cherry notes, smoke, gravel – make no mistake, Le Pergole Torte is meant to age. . But it’s worth going a bit more into the philosophy of the Manettis. Although Sangiovese has been Tuscany’s most famous variety for many centuries it hasn’t always been accorded due respect. Chianti especially has had a roller coaster-ride of a century, from the insipid, watery “pizza wines” of thirty years ago to a preponderance of rather un-Sangiovese-like wines, anonymous and forgettable all at the same time. Although there are many great producers honouring the region with their wines, there have simply been too many Chiantis, blended into oblivion with heavy doses of Cabernet (or Syrah or whatever) and then lavished with new oak in a misguided effort to polish Sangiovese’s true character. Le Pergole Torte is one of those rare wines that sparkles with incredible charm. It is authentic and one of the gems of Tuscany – a landscape that is not without its share of treasures. The complex fruit of slightly bitter red cherry dominates the wine in its youth. It is gentle, silky, and seductive with a hint of grainy tannins to flesh out its finish. But, it also has an ethereal bouquet of crushed red cherries and the wild scent of “sotto bosce”, the forest undergrowth with its hints of mushroom and truffle and dried pine needles. There is the masculine and the feminine, the yin and the yang, of great wine to be found in this rendition which, for all its uniqueness, refers constantly to the profound traditions of this fine estate that has fought to preserve Sangiovese as the supreme grape of Tuscany. The Montevertine has a plummy colour and a broad, ruby rim. The nose is soft and approachable, with blackberry and cherry fruit, though a fine, jammy ripeness. There is a sweet earthiness on the palate of a lovely mouth-filling wine, with a slightly bloody, baked plum pie quality and a fine juicy mid-palate. There are hints of chocolatey depth before fresh lemon acidity cuts through, with hints of spices and tobacco. Pian del Ciampolo is the baby of the stable and could pass for a Piedmontese wine in a certain light.
with great finesse. Really light plum, dried herbs, rose petals, balsam, extremely earthy/dusty and mineral-laden. Beautiful, lithe cherries and touch of herbs and earth. Good fruit finish with plenty of zing and spine. 2015
PIAN DEL CIAMPOLO R
2014 MONTEVERTINE R
PERGOLE TORTE R
- 263 - TOSCANA Continued…
CANTINE VITTORIO INNOCENTI, MONTEFOLLONICO, Toscana The estate lies between Montepulciano and Montefollonico and consists of about 32 hectares of which 12 are specialised vineyards, situated between 330 and 350 metres above sea level on medium-textured clay soils of Pliocene origin. The cellar buildings, dating back to end of the 13 th century, are in the small, well-preserved medieval town of Montefollonico. The oldest document referring to the wine of Montepulciano dates back to 789: the cleric Arnipert offered the church of San Silvestro or San Salvatore in Lanciniano, on Mt. Amiata, a portion of land with vineyards on it inside the castle of Policiano. Later in his “Historical and geographical dictionary of Tuscany” Repetti mentioned a document dating back to 1350 in which the terms for trade and exportation of Montepulciano wine were established. Records show that since the early Middle Ages the vineyards of Mons Politianus have produced excellent wines. In the mid-16 th century Sante Lancerio, cellarman of Pope Paul III Farnese, praised Montepulciano “perfect in both winter and summer, aromatic, fleshy, never sour, nor brightly- coloured, because it is a wine fit for Noblemen” – for the tables of noblemen, although the earliest labels read simply Rosso Scelto di Montepulciano. Moving on from the Middle Ages to the 17 th century, Francesco Redi, renowned doctor and naturalist but also a poet, thoroughly praised the wine in his dithyrambic ode “Bacchus in Tuscany” (1685) in which Bacchus and Ariadne extol the finest Tuscan wines. The poem ends: Montepulciano is the king of all wines! The wine continued to be praised throughout its history and in the 19 th century the success of some wineries in important mid-century competitions was balanced by the severe opinion of His British Majesty’s winemaker at the Vienna exhibition in 1873, when he complained that the single sample of Montepulciano present was “mediocre enough to raise a few doubts about Redi’s praise”. When Vino Nobile made its debut as a DOCG in 1983 commentators were equally appalled at the poor quality. Now it is a more nobile beast worthy of an occasional panegyric. Aged in oak for two years and made from Prugnolo (plummy) Gentile (the local name for Sangiovese), Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo grapes, the Innocenti version is ruby red in colour tending towards garnet with age. It is a dense, spicy wine with cinnamon, plums and tea flavours finishing dry and slightly tannic with a delicate scent of violets. This is a wine with plenty of stuffing – perfect with steak, preferably bistecca alla fiorentina, grilled with olive oil and salt. Made from Sangiovese and Canaiolo Toscano grapes with a medium period of maceration, the Chianti is a little (not so little) belter. With the wines from the Classico region topping ten quid it’s great to find a rustic uncompromising Sangiovese. Lovely meaty style of wine with flavours of spicy ripe cherries, roasted herbs, leather and liquorice. Try this with ribollita, a bread-thickened bean and black cabbage soup or pot roast pigeon cooked with sage and spiced luganega sausage with stir-fried fennel or braised celery. The Rosso di Montepulciano has plummy warmth and the reassurance of a well-kept barnyard. Notes of saddle leather and wild rose assail the nose, the palate is sweet, soft and gently spicy, and the finish suggests beeswax on old wood. If you are a sanitary modernist you’ll run a mile, but if you enjoy a truffle up each nostril this will be your bag of earth. 2013
CHIANTI DEI COLLI SENESI R
2014 ROSSO DI MONTEPULCIANO R
VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO R
2010 VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO RISERVA R
AA SAN FERDINANDO, VAL DI CHIANA, Toscana – Organic San Ferdinando’s estate spreads over 60 hectares in the heart of Tuscany in the area of Val di Chiana noted for its tradition of oil and wine production. The Grifoni family, inspired by the passion and by the respect for this land, purchased the farm in 1998. The vineyards, at an altitude of 300 metres above sea level, occupy a total area of nine hectares and are planted with local Ciliegiolo, Sangiovese, Pugnitello and Vermentino. Most of the vineyard activities, hoeing included, are rigorously done by hand, while tractors are used for topping and treatments that follow the principles of supervised pest control. All operations that are part of the productive cycle of the wine always occur under the supervision of the watchful eye of Simone, who takes care that the vineyard is treated like a garden, with great respect for the environment and for nature. Weedkillers and insecticides are completely banned with plants sown in the vineyard rows and, green manures are frequently used. Podere Gamba is the vineyard name, lying on medium-textured stony clay soils rich in potassium. The blend is Sangiovese and Pugnitello (85/15), the grapes harvested in mid October normally. Harvest is manual and grapes are sorted, before destemming and a light crushing. The two grapes are vinified separately in stainless steel tanks at a conga controlled temperature before being transferred into Allier oak barrels for eight months before being bottled. With its nose of forest fruit, cherry, liquorice and coffee this is a silky style of Chianti with soft tannins and good juice. Pugnitello, by the way, is named after an ancient Tuscan grape variety, the word referring to the form of the cluster, which resembles a small fist (pugno ).
2015
CHIANTI PODERE GAMBA R
2016 CILIEGIOLO R
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