Download 6.21 Mb.Pdf ko'rish
- Bu sahifa navigatsiya:
- 264 -
TENUTA CAPARSA, PAOLO CIANFERONI, RADDA IN CHIANTI, Toscana – Organic
The vineyards here are truly in the heart of Chianti, a perfect location, radiating out with the cellar as their centre. The best
vines are situated a few hundred metres farther up the hill from the cellar (450 metres above sea level) and are heavily planted
with Sangiovese. Small amounts of Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera, Colorino, and Trebbiano are also grown.
Respect for nature and balance with the larger environment are core principles at Caparsa. Sixty percent of the estate’s land
remains forested for biodiversity. “Herbicides simplify a vineyard,” Cianferoni has stated. Chemicals have an undeniable
dulling impact on a farm’s products. Making wines this thrilling has to be done naturally.
Cianferoni is in the process of selecting and replanting portions of his old vineyards with plant stock culled from his oldest
vineyards: massale replanting. He believes these 46-year-old vineyards produce wines that are rustic at first, yet are innately
very age-worthy. The vines grow in gallestro and alberese soils. The roots must work hard to derive life from this rocky
ground, fight to reach the abundant water deep under the surface. Cianferoni appreciates the struggle of his vines. “When life
is too easy it becomes boring, and you kill yourself” he said. We need toil to sustain us, and so do vines.
Caparsa’s Caparsino Chianti Classico Riserva is in a league of its own. “Others use notes or paint, I use nature.” The wine is
95% Sangiovese. Cianferoni points out the richness and acidity of Caparsino as fundamental elements necessary for the wine
to age. Caparsino shares its name with the house Cianferoni lives in on the property. “It is a wine for wine lovers, with great
complexity and strong emotions. It is too much for some people. It represents, more than the other wines, the terroir (of
Cianferoni says his riservas benefit from 15-20 years of ageing. But they are fundamentally meant to drink. “It is great with
beef, simple bread and olive oil. The wine is to provide just a little happiness, not to get out of your mind.”
Caparsa’s cellar is stone, old and cold, with minimal technology. Everything here is deliberate. Fermentations begin with wild
yeasts, and for the reds, last about 12 days. Cianferoni uses 10 hectolitre large barrels to age his reds. “Wood has many risks.
Small barrels dry too much the wine. And the extra tannin (from small barrels) can be toxic.” He likes a complex mix of
Slovenian, American, Hungarian and French oak for his big barrels.
Cianferoni bottles once per year, an average of 20,000 bottles. “If I stay small I control everything.” He ferments in concrete.
Rosso di Caparsa is certified organic by CCPB. It comes from Radda in Chianti, the heart of Tuscany, on hilly, high-elevation
vineyards. Wild yeasts are used for fermentation, and the wine ages in stainless steel. I’ll let Paolo explain the blend: “The
Wine “Rosso di Caparsa is made with Sangiovese and two white grapes: Trebbiano and Malvasia. This wine remembers the
ancient Chianti wine made for the peasant to drink a lot. It is a brilliant red, with very intense aromas of flowers. The taste is
very agreeable. It is not full-bodied, so you can drink a lot of it. It is not a white wine, not a rosé wine; it is a natural
expression of a traditional wine.”
What might Robert Hughes say about this sanguine maquis-inflected number? Possibly that it “possesses the prototypes of
strong sensation: blazing lights, red earth, blue sea, mauve twilight, the flake of gold buried in the black depths of the cypress;
archaic tastes of wine and olive, ancient smells of dust, goat dung and thyme, immemorial sounds of cicada and rustic flute.”
ROSSO DI CAPARSA
CHIANTI CLASSICO CAPARSINA RISERVA
- 265 -
We watched the ocean and sky together
Under the roof of blue Italian weather
Shelley (not one of his finest moments)
PODERE LE BONCIE, CASTELNUOVO BERARDENGA, Toscana – Organic
Giovanna Morganti is quickly becoming recognised as one of the best of the new generation of Tuscan winemakers. Her small
estate is only three hectares and her only wine is called “Le Trame” (the intrigues) signifying the wheeling and dealing
required to purchase the land. Giovanna’s father was a legendary winemaker who believed in Tuscan varietals long before the
flying oenologists identified this area as super pay-dirt. She studied oenology herself and went to the work in the mid 1980s for
San Felice wines in Castelnuovo Berardenga, near Siena, on a project to plant around 300 traditional Tuscan grape varietals
collected from old vineyards. When Giovanna’s father gave her a small farm with olive groves, called Le Boncie, she added a
vineyard planted with her favourites from the experimental project – Sangiovese, obviously, but also Ciliegolo, Colorino,
Fogliatonda Mammolo and Prugnolo. She makes only one wine – Le Trame Chianti Classico – and releases it a year later
than most winemakers.
Planted to a very high density, 7000 vines per hectare, the vineyard is primarily Sangiovese, with a few rows of Fogliatonda
for blending. Fermentation takes place in traditional open-topped wooden tanks. Gambero Rosso comments on Le Trame’s
“great, and on occasion sublime, fruit”, and Giovanna’s “traditional values & modern technique”. A Chianti Classico notable
for purity and grace from an organically farmed vineyard. Drink with the classic harvest meal at Le Boncie: pasta with meat
sauce, stewed rabbit with seasonal veg.
Giovanna’s wine is made to the rhythms of nature, according to terroir and the vintage. As with many organic growers the
objective is not to please or seduce the critics (particularly the American ones), but to present a wine that is true to itself as far
is possible. Following the voice of the inner critic Giovanna Morganti answers the famous Socratic question: “And what is
good, Phaedrus, and what is not good – need we ask anyone to tell us these things?”
“LE TRAME” TOSCANA IGP
CHIANTI CLASSICO “LE TRAME” – magnum
FATTORIA DI RODANO, CASTELLINA IN CHIANTI, Toscana
Fattoria di Rodano is located in the heart of the Chianti Classico in the famed region of Castellina in Chianti. The
original farm dates back from the middle ages, when it was used as a lodge for pilgrims travelling from northern
Europe to Rome. Its pristine vineyard that spread to over 100 hectares is located at 200-300 metres above sea level,
is the perfect location to create classic, soulful Chianti Classico. The estate has been in the Pozzesi family since the
1700s. Vittorio Pozzesi, is the President of the Chianti Classico Consortium, and he runs the winery along with his
son Enrico and winemaker Giulio Gambelli. The pride and joy of the property is their Viacosta vineyard, a south-
facing vineyard of 35- to-45-year-old vines. The wines are aged in a combination of traditional Slovenian botte
grande and small barriques. The result is wine that combines pure fruit and a spirit of earthiness. The vineyards are
constantly being replanted with the newest Sangiovese clones and double density vines per hectare.
The Chianti Classico “normale” comes from vineyards facing southwest in the Castellina district.
The wine, a blend of 90% Sangiovese with 5% each of Colorino and Canaiolo, respects the tradition of Chianti
Classico but also has “modern components” from the aging in small French barrels.
Luscious plum, cinnamon, wild strawberries with a ruddy cherry sweetness mark this excellent value Chianti
Classico. The savoury fruit is well balanced and lifted by the piquant acidity. Elegant and lengthy in the finish.
The wine is unfined and unfiltered – all the meat left on these bones!
The Chianti Classico Riserva Viacosta is made from 100% Sangiovese.60% of the wine spends 20 months in large oak
botte, the remainder in small barrels – half of which are new. Initial concentrated flavours of classic bitter cherry and
smoked almonds open out to an impeccably balanced palate showing plenty of dark chocolate, black cherries and cigar
box aromas. The finish displays a dash of vanilla and cedar from the French oak aging. Forward red and black fruits
are lush and coat the mouth, while chewy tannins offer up a powerful grip.
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA “VIACOSTA”
- 266 -
Alicante Bouschet grape is, in fact, red.
ANTONIO CAMILLO, Maremma, Toscana – Organic
Antonio Camillo worked for fifteen years as a cellar master in the most important estates in Maremma (the last eight
at Poggio Argentiera). Recently Antonio felt the necessity to fly with his own wings and produce his own wine
bought two vineyards totalling five hectares in the area between Sovana and Pitigliano (in the south of Maremma on
the border with Lazio).
THE BRIEF HISTORY OF CILIEGIOLO
The first documented references to the Ciliegiolo are from the early 17
century when the Florentine writer Soderini
described a “Ciregiuolo dolce” with a long bunch, a somewhat large berry, and a sweet – “dolce” – and fragrant
flavour. This description of the physical characteristics of the variety corresponds to present-day Ciliegiolo, as does
the observation that the grape does best in notably warm climates. There exists, nonetheless, in popular and folk
descriptions of Ciliegiolo, another tradition which attributes the origins of the grape to Spain and ascribes its
presence in Italy to pilgrims who returned with it to Italy from the sanctuary of Saint James in Compostela. Hence the
other name once widely used for the grape in Italy: “Ciliegiona rossa tonda di Spagna”, or the “red and round
Ciliegiona of Spain”. At the present time, Ciliegiolo is cultivated almost exclusively in Umbria and Tuscany. The
warmth of Maremma’s growing season is reflected in well
made Ciliegiolo, a wine from which the generosity and
sweetness of fruit are unmistakeably Mediterranean. Maremma IGT Rosso Principio to give it more than its full
name, is from forty-year-old vines, in an historic area for the production of red wines. Fermentation is in vat (with
indigenous yeast) wherein the wine spends six months before bottling. It’s not an ostentatious all-singing, all-dancing
number but burbles juicily with cherry, raspberry and blueberry seasoned by caraway and dry thyme. In the mouth
is fresh, youthful and mineral with a pleasing tannic structure.
VERMENTINO DI MAREMMA MARITIMMO
TOSCANA BIANCO PROCANICO
MAREMMA ROSSO IGT PRINCIPIO
MORELLINO DI SCANSANO “COTOZZINO”
AMPELEIA, MAREMMA, Toscana – Biodynamic
These vineyards in the Maremma were converted to biodynamic farming in 2009, starting with Ampeleia di Sopra and will
gradually continue the conversion with the vineyards of Ampeleia di Mezzo and Ampeleia di Sotto, both farmed organically
for the time being. The guiding principle in all winemaking procedures is to preserve the integrity of the grapes and wine:
only by respecting the natural processes transforming grapes to wine, can the birth of a wine that is the true expression of
its land of origin be enshrined.
honoured tradition of offering a fresh and joyful red wine. Balsamic character on the nose, wild herbs and spices hints. Well
defined on the palate, clear-cut and neat. Contrasting finish with pleasantly bitter notes of cherries and wild strawberries.
This is a blend of Alicante (local name for Grenache), Carignano and Alicante Bouschet by the way. The Alicante is a
beautifully silky red,
floral and warm, with expressive notes of geranium, dried flowers and aromatic herbs, fresh and
savoury. The Carignano is darker, more mineral with a cool undertow of dark, pithy fruit.
UNLITRO DI AMPELEIA COSTA TOSCANA – 1 Litre
ALICANTE IGT COSTA TOSCANA
CARIGNANO IGT COSTA TOSCANA
- 267 -
Elisabetta Fagiuoli is the living metaphor of her land, and she greets you, as the land welcomes you, with a smile that
testifies to her joy in extending you hospitality. She shares with you her vision of the world, and impresses you with the
same quiet strength that millennial culture of winemaking possesses. And you accept her for the elegance of her eloquence
and gestures. So says Luigi Veronelli.
Everything about Elisabetta radiates poetry, a deep sense of tradition and spiritual feeling for the land. The land is in her
blood, thanks to her family, who cultivated vines and olive trees in Custozza, not far from Verona, since the 1700s, and
also thanks to her childhood, spent wandering the vineyards of Valpolicella.
Montenidoli is the hill of the little nests; higher up the slopes are the Triassic terrains, the oldest in Tuscany, rich with
minerals for the red wines, whilst further down are Quaternary terrains on the slopes, where the calcareous sediments left
by the Ligurian Sea feed the white wines and enrich their perfumes. The Etruscans were the first to discover this treasure
and plant their vines, followed by the Romans and the Knights Templar. Elisabetta and family arrived in 1965 to see how
they could capture the wonderful potential of the terroir.
Montenidoli’s vineyards are organically grown. For fifty years no herbicide, insecticides or any other chemicals have been
used. This is a microclimate brimming with life. The vineyards are aglow with fireflies by night and dancing with ladybugs
by day. “We began to break up the clods of earth and make hummus, raising earthworms and also rabbits, for their
precious manure. Now, we leave the hoeing to the roots of plants we sow in the vineyards, and till under each spring”.
Sulfur and copper are the only substances used to treat infection. And only if absolutely necessary, because sunlight and
clean air are perceived to be the best medicine to make the vines healthy, strong, and resistant to disease and bad weather.
Work in the vineyard is vigorous and vines are monitored from the time the first buds appear in the spring, whereupon a
preliminary selection of bunches is made. Before the invaiatura (or veraison) the grape bunches are checked. Grapes
tendto be reach optimal maturity between the end of September and the first week of October. The harvest is by hand, with
an initial selection of bunches, which are laid flat in small baskets for their trip to the winery.
The bunches destined to go into the various wines are divided up, destemmed, and set to macerate in chilled tanks. Only
the white grapes destined to become Vernaccia Tradizionale are pressed and following the old tradition the must
macerates at length with the skins and is pressed as soon as the fermentation begins, to extract the flavour of the terroir.
The Tradizionale is straw yellow tending towards gold, with herbal and almond perfumes, rich flavours, and a dry, crisp
aftertaste. The finish smacks of savoury spice and some bitter almonds, and some warmth. Ideal with Mediterranean dishes
cooked with extra virgin olive oil and sushi also with difficult to match vegetables such as asparagus and artichokes.
Vernaccia Fiore is made with the free-run juice, displaying all the finesse and elegance of which Vernaccia is capable. It
ferments in steel, and ages on the lees to gain roundness and persistence. Displaying considerable depth, it is full, with
rich, elegant white berry fruit supported by greenish accents and spice from grapes, and by clean rich white berry fruit
Il Templare Bianco is a blend of 70% Vernaccia, 20% Trebbiano Gentile and 10% Malvasia Bianca also made from free-
run juice. The wine is fermented in barriques which resemble the small casks used in Tuscany since immemorial time and
matures in wood for 12 months. The bouquet is rich, with greenish accents and gunflint supported by bright acidity and
clean bitter white pear and spice; it’s quite graceful and a pleasure to sniff, offering many facets. On the palate it’s full and
bright, with ample fairly rich white berry fruit supported by savoury notes and a fair amount of languid minerality that
flow into a clean peppery finish.
It is the wine for bivalves and crustaceans. Ideal too with salt cod, swordfish and tuna and balances the spiciness of Indian
dishes, and the hot peppers of Mexican food.
VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO “TRADIZIONALE”
VERNACCIA DI SAN GIMIGNANO “FIORE”
- 268 -
The Spirit of Wine
Sang in my glass, and I listened
With love to his odorous music,
His flushed and magnificent song.
- ‘I am health, I am heart, I am life!
For I give for the asking
The fire of my father, the Sun,
And the strength of my mother, the Earth.
Inspiration in essence,
I am wisdom and wit to the wise,
His visible muse to the poet,
The soul of desire to the lover,
The genius of laughter to all.
‘Come, lean on me, ye that are weary!
Rise, ye faint-hearted and doubting!
Haste, ye that lag by the way!
I am Pride, the consoler;
Valour and Hope are my henchmen;
I am the Angel of Rest.
‘I am life, I am wealth, I am fame:
For I captain an army
Of shining and generous dreams;
And mine, too, all mine, are the keys
Of that secret spiritual shrine,
Where, his work-a-day soul put by,
Shut in with his saint of saints -
With his radiant and conquering self -
Man worships, and talks, and is glad.
‘Come, sit with me, ye that are lovely,
Ye that are paid with disdain,
Ye that are chained and would soar!
I am beauty and love;
I am friendship, the comforter;
I am that which forgives and forgets.’ -
The Spirit of Wine
Sang in my heart, and I triumphed
In the savour and scent of his music,
His magnetic and mastering song.
PATERNA, GABRIELLA TANI, AREZZO, Toscana – Organic
Paterna is a very tiny “cooperative sociale”, comprising 3 farmers only who share their land and work in the farm. They
produce olive oil, strawberries, and many seasonal vegetables and fruit, as well as wine. The farm is run organically (they
have been organic farming 268lumiest in Tuscany), produce their own herbs used to test biodynamic preparations as well
(although they are not totally into BD yet), and own a little “Agriturismo”. Like many growers that have been working in a
natural fashion far before natural wines became fashionable. The Chianti “Paterna” DOCG Colli Aretini is obtained from
Sangiovese grapes (90%), plus other local varieties (like Colorino del Valdarno, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, etc ...), with a
production of about 70 quintals of grapes per hectare. The 8 hectare vineyards are properties of the cooperative and situated
on the hills (300 metres above sea level), near Arezzo, at the foot of Pratomagno mountain and in front of the Chianti hills. The
soil structure here is loose and rocky. Some vineyards are 30-40 years old and others are 6-7 years old. The winemaking is
traditional and simple: soft pressing and destemming of the grapes, with low doses of sulphites and native yeasts for the
ferment. The fermentation lasts for 8-10 days with repeated pumping-over the must and the maturation takes place in tank. The
wine is bottled one year from harvest and is allowed to mature for a further 6-8 months before release.
Il Terraio is a blend of Malvasia and Trebbiano (95%), plus Orpicchio (5%). Grapes are destemmed. 80% is fermented in
stainless steel vats, and the remaining 20% is skin-macerated in cement vats with no temperature control. Fermentation takes
place with indigenous yeasts, after which both parts are blended and aged in stainless steel tanks. Aromatic yet restrained,
refreshing citrus fruit together with stone fruit and apples. Lovely texture and mouthfeel, followed by a wash of refreshing
acidity, plus notes of toasted almonds and baked bread.
TOSCANA BIANCO “IL TERRAIO”
CHIANTI COLLI ARETINI
- 269 -
Download 6.21 Mb.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham:
ma'muriyatiga murojaat qiling