Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
ANDERT WEIN, PAMHAGEN, Burgenland – Biodynamic
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- NANDO, ANDREJ KRISTANIC, Brda, Slovenia– Organic
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ANDERT WEIN, PAMHAGEN, Burgenland – Biodynamic Michael Andert was born into a large family and grew up on a farm with mixed agriculture, livestock and viticulture and learned to respect his family, his animals and the associated work. Today, as winemaker, this respect has deepened even more. “We think we found the right way in the biodynamic economy to press the grapes into sustainable and valuable wines. We respect the earthly and cosmic influences on our wines, our soil and also we respect the influence of the seasons on our wines.” Biodynamic farming started in 2003 with Demeter certificate awarded in 2007. The 11 vineyard parcels are spread over 11 plots. The climate is Pannonian (cold winter-hot and dry summer), the lake (Neusiedlersee) on the west side and the Waasen on the east side give an influence of warm humid air in the summer months. The surface soil is black earth (20-40cm) with changing rough-texture, whilst the undersoil is loamy sand with gravel We were taken to the small plot of vines that comprise the Gemischter Sotz, a field blend of various white grapes. The location of the vineyard is in itself unremarkable, being a flat piece of land that was once under water (the marshes around here were drained some time ago) although some of the boggy, low-lying areas still host an extraordinary variety of birds. This small vineyard is humming with life. They have installed a box in a lone tree at one end of the row of vines for falcons to nest in. Herbs and grasses grow bountifully– spring onions, wild garlic, oregano and countless other herbs, edible (as it turns out) flowers and weeds. The Andert barrel cellar is a no-tech affair. There is no electricity, so tasting is done by candle light. You could put the “bottling line” in your back pocket. These are not technical wines. I was very much taken with the whites. All the wines are made in a similar natural fashion with varying amounts of skin contact and maturation in old barriques and 500 litre barrels. Manual harvest, destemmed grapes, fermented in open-topped containers, a maceration 5-11 days (Pamhogna – 11 days for Rulander) before pressing. Ferments are with indigenous yeast and are ambient (the garage door is opened or closed). The wine matures gently in 225 l and 500 l oak barrel and the goes through a natural malo, a light filtration, no fining – with sulphur only added at bottling Gemischter Sotz is a melange of co-fermented Neuburger, Grüner Veltliner, Malvazia, Muskat Ottonel, Sylvaner. It’s fresh and aromatic with a friendly streak of acidity. The Pamhogna white is 55% Rulander (Pinot Gris), 40% Neuberger and 5% Weissburgunder. This wine has an intense golden-yellow colour and a lovely herbal fragrance. It requires carafeing before all the elements harmonise – from the exotic white pear and pineapple fruit aromas to the refreshing acid and fine structure conferred by a gentle clasp of tannin. The Rulander takes us to Princic country, possessing an exquisite salmon colour with amber highlights. The nose is (sweet) meaty and a little bit smoky, the palate is smooth and almost velvety with suggestions of pink grapefruit, yet also salty with a bitter almond note on the finish.
2016 GEMISCHTER SOTZ W
2016 PAMHOGNA WEISS W
2015 GRUNER VELTLINER
ANADJUCKA Or
2015
PM – on allocation Or
2015
RULANDER Or
2014
ZWEIGELT MITOHNEALLES R
WERMUTLICH, PETER JURANITSCH ANDERT, PAMHAGEN, Burgenland – Biodynamic This is the brainchild of Thomas Juranitsch -sommelier of Palais Coburg (Vienna’s three star Michelin) Hubert Peter – who has his own project called Barrikade and Michael Andert – of Andert-Wein. They came together to make three different vermouths (we have two of them) – white, rose and red. All are from Zweigelt grapes – the white is pressed, the other two have varying amounts of skin contact. All the grapes are biodynamically grown in the Andert vineyard. The rose was muted with schnapps (to give a touch of sweetness). The white and red are topped with schnapps, the spirit made from their own wine and yeasts, distilled by a friend of Andert’s in Pamhagen. The herbs and botanicals are from the vineyard and garden in Lerchenfeld and these include wormwood, chamomile, lemon pepper, juniper, cinnamon, marjoram… The white is orange tinged in colour, superbly vinous and quite delicious with a classic hint of bitterness. The rose is a lovely balance of sweet cherry fruit flavours and some nice freshness in the finish.
WERMUTLICH WEISS W
WERMUTLICH ROSE Ro
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FRANZ WENINGER, Burgenland – Biodynamic Just as each wine grower is a unique individual, so too are their vineyards. Franz Weninger insists on expressing the different soil types found throughout Burgenland and uses Blaufrankisch as the vehicle with which to do this. Firstly, it is important to encourage biodiversity, to work organically and also biodynamically. Variety instead of uniformity Annual androsace, lady orchid, and much life can be found in the vineyards providiing enrichment. . The vines themsleves are planted on loam, slate, mica and lime. Franz views the soil as the origin, the fermentation the birth and the ageing in the cellar as the education of the wines. Thus, he treats these soils with respect and with pride, too. In terms of the climate Lake Neusiedl to the east brings warmth; the Bucklige Welt to the west brings cool temperatures. The Illyrian climate sometimes sends in storms from the south. The Sopron Mountains in the north and the Kőszeg Mountains in the south provide protection. But this is generally a warm region, propitious for red grape varieties. But Franz is looking for balance rather than extraction – which brings us back to the farming. Holistic growth and vines in harmony with nature are thegoals; organic-biodynamic cultivation is themethod. The biological activity of the soil (micro- and macroorganisms) brings the wine’s provenance to the glass. The need for cellar work is minimised because everything is in balance. At Weingut Weninger, all vineyard work is adapted to the plant with respect to the rhythm of the seasons and the moon. Protecting the natural balance in the vineyard, with the aid of biodynamic preparations and the use of homeopathic teas, enables them to harvest healthy and vibrant grapes. (The horsetail and nettle are collected in the immediate surroundings of the vineyards). Cuvee Franz is a blend of Merlot, Zweigelt and Blaufrankisch from the Horitschon vineyards in Mittelburgenland. Grapes are hand harvested and after two weeks of maceration the wine is aged for 14 months in big Austrian oak barrels. This brilliant value little red has a good punch of red fruit. Horitschoner comes from, loamy soil with high iron content. Soil was erased from the Ödenburg hills (gneiss and mica schist) so one finds schist and a lot of quartz in the soil. Grapes are manually harvested (yields are around 40 hl/ha) and then destemmed but not crushed. The grapes are placed in a mixture of stainless vat, cement, wood for a ten days maceration before pressing and fermented in same with indigenous yeasts. Barrel maturation in 20-50 hl barrels with the natural malolactic fermentation in the barrels. No filtration or fining and sulphur used according to need. Hochäcker is among the oldest sites in Horitschon. Its rockless, hard, and loamy substratum is interspersed with iron, which is characteristic of traditional Blaufränkisch soil. The forty-year-old vines produce highest quality grapes every harvest. Red berry fruit, delicate forest berries, subtle notes of cherry, spices, and tobacco. Freshly structured on the palate. A complex wine, but not opulent. Dense and extremely concentrated thus ideal for ageing. 2014
CUVEE FRANZ R
2015 BLAUFRANKISCH HORITSCHONER R
BLAUFRANKISCH HOCHACHER R
2015 BLAUFRANKISCH KALKOFEN R
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BURJA, PRIMOZ LAVRENCIC, Vipava, Slovenia– Organic Strongly believing in respecting local grape varieties, Burja Estate winemaker Primož Lavrencic bought a 60 year old Malvasia vineyard in the Vipava Valley along the northern Adriatic coast some years ago. Today he produces Zelen, Pokalca (Schioppettino), Refošk (Refosco), Rebula (Ribolla Gialla), Malvazija (Malvasia d`Istria), Laški rizling (Italian Riesling, Welschriesling), Modra frankinja (Blaufränkisch) wines, ensuring that the principals of organic and biodynamic production are followed. Lavrencic works with nature to encourage character and authenticity is his wines, always looking for spontaneous fermentation and diversity. The soil in Primoz’s vineyards has developed slowly on over fifty million years old flysch marlstone and sandstones. These rocks, rich with calcium carbonate, formed in the sea in the Eocene Epoch, more specifically during the Cuisian Stage. Fine-grained marlstone, containing more or less cemented rock fragments, sized only a few hundredths of a millimetre, makes heavy soil which retains moisture longer and more easily. According to location and natural geographic features, the Vipava Valley is transitional, squeezed between the Trnovo Plateau on the North and Karst on the South. Its openness to the west brings the influence of the Mediterranean climate. The climate of the Vipava Valley is sub-Mediterranean, with hot dry summers and mild winters. It is a mixture of Alpine, Mediterranean and Continental climates. The Vipava Valley is also the windiest part of Slovenia, the gusts of its famous wind – bora (burja) can reach up to 240 kph. Microflora are an important part of each vineyard’s identity. The work in the vineyards, which are treated according to the principles of biological and biodynamic production, is always in the spotlight. Primoz is getting to know the details of soil and climate diversity for individual locations and uses this information to adjust different varieties and vineyard cultivation. He controls the temperature and oxidation in the wine cellar, encouraging the rest.and tries work in synergy with the vine, wine and nature, including stimulating spontaneous fermentation, which ensures the contact between grape skin and must also with the white wines. The diversity of yeast strains contributes to the complexity of the wine and provides original expression of each vineyard. The Zelen comes from a young vineyard called Golavna on flysch soils (a sandwich of sandstone, marl, breccia and conglomerate). Whole berries are macerated for a couple of days in stainless steel. Fermentation is spontaneous and malolactic takes place naturally. The wine is straightforward and has a Muscadet-like saline quality. The Reddo is playing with the idea of former red wine varieties in the Vipava Valley, which were once in minority, for home consumption only. Pokalca (Schioppettino) 50%, Modra frankinja (Blaufränkisch) 30%, Refošk (Refosco) 20% blend here to brilliant effect. Young vineyards, from 4 to 6 years old. Aged for two years in large barrels (10 to 15 hl) and 225 l barrique barrels.
through it. Bela is a field blend of Laski Rizling, Rebula, Malvazija and other oddments from an old vineyard, naturally fermented and aged in foudres. Fantastic wine with dense leesy texture and mouthfilling dried fruits.
2016 PETIT BURJA ZELEN W
2016 BURJA BELA ~ Laski Rizling, Rebula, Malvazija W
2015 BURJA REDDO ~ Schioppettino, Blaufrankisch, Refosco R
NANDO, ANDREJ KRISTANIC, Brda, Slovenia– Organic NANDO farm is located in Plesivo, Brda in the Primorska region, bordering with the Friuli-Collio region of Italy. Of the 5.5 hectares, 60% are located in Italian Collio and 40% in Brda. The favourable Mediterranean micro-climate is mixed with warm sea air arriving from the Adriatic Sea in the south, and cooler temperatures from the Julian Alps located north of the farm. This unique climate is very well suited for white wines. The vineyards are terraced at an altitude of 100m to 200m, and planted with local (indigenous) Rebula, Tokaj, and Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. The vines range from 9 to 40 years, with yields of 4000 to 6000 kg. per hectare. The vineyards are planted in a poor soil of marl or “ponka” as it’s known in the local Slovenian dialect. To protect against disease, copper and sulphur treatments are used sparingly. Chemical agents are not used. The soil is planted with grass, and the harvest is manual with grapes harvested in full maturity from September to October. Spontaneous fermentation without the addition of selected yeasts, sulfur and other chemicals. Minimal amount of S02 are added only at bottling. Andrej Kristančič, owner of Nando Winery, has been making wines on his family’s farm for nearly 25 years. He studied winemaking in high-school, allowing him to expand on his personal style while continuing the family tradition started by his grandfather, Nando. Andrej has a low interventionist style, combined with a true farmer’s knowledge, humility, and dedication to tradition marked with his own personal expression of winemaking. The Blue Label wines are fermented with their own yeasts in stainless tanks after a very brief maceration on skins. Malvazija is the most inviting and mineral fresh of the three wines; the Jakot (Friulano) the most floral and delicious and the Rebula is the most textural with a pronounced character of wild bitter herbs. Its Black Label counterpart is fermented 4 months on skins and aged for a lengthy period in used barrels. Beautiful bronze colour, powerful yet integrated tannins, this is a profound infusion of a wine.
2014 MALVAZIJA BLUE LABEL W
2016 JAKOT BLUE LABEL W
2015 REBULA BLUE LABEL W
MALVAZIJA BLACK LABEL Or
2010/13
REBULA BLACK LABEL Or
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The farm lies on the southern slopes of Pohorje, where there is a strong bond with Žiče monastery. Žiče monastery is an important part of European culture and history and is intimately connected with the place and people. More than a thousand years old history of the Carthusians ended in 1782, when Emperor Joseph II, in the spirit of enlightenment reforms in Europe, ordained to close down leading Carthusian monasteries which had large estates. Thus, vineyards spread out over Pohorje region from Slovenske Konjice to Maribor, where they also had stocked cellars for storing wine and residing. After the closure of the monastery, the clergy sold its land and buildings. Zorjan’s ancestors bought a little land land and a small cellar for wine storage, an original part of which is still preserved. The rich tradition of viticulture binds this family to continue production of natural wines with a spirit, body and soul. Life in the embrace of Pohorje forests is exceptional. Pohorje is composed of igneous rocks, which are covered only by a very thin layer of fertile soil; therefore, there is a lot of forest. In clearings, there is a thicker layer of fertile soil, where fields, vineyards and secluded farms spread out. There is always a gentle wind blowing, whispering the eternal song of life. Bozidar focuses on reanimating the fertility of the soils each year, by ensuring that there is a range of biodynamic preparations, which are used to create composts and sprays. The cycle of continual decomposition and restoring of life is observed and encouraged. The location of the farm is exceptional, the soils rich in minerals, such as tonalite rock, which retains moisture throughout the year, the unique green marble Čizlakit, white marble, which was already used by the Romans in this area, as well as traces of gold and other elements that all contribute to the character of the wines. Today Bozidar cultivates 4 hectares of vineyard in addiiton to 3 hectares of high stem orchards. The circuit is completed with mini sheep, which live all year-round in the vineyards. The carefully harvested grapes are always macerated, according to biodynamic principles, so life continues. One-half of the harvest of grapes is placed in amphorae, which are buried under the open sky. Cosmic forces turn grapes through the winter into wine and thus give a uniquely living wine, where the man with his ego is just a mere observer. “Ever since I was a child I dreamed about making wine without a cellar or a press. Now, I always dream beautiful dreams, which are brought to me by tasting the spirit of my wine. The second half of our wine is kept in used oak barrels with a minimum quantity of sulfur”. Biodynamic – one farm approach prevails. Preps 500, 501 and 508 are sprayed in the vineyard whilst other homeopathic remedies are utilsied. Composting with mature from own animals – 502. 503. 504, 505. 506, 507 preps Couve is Laški Rizling 70%, Renski Rizling 30%. Grapes are harvested by hand, then destemmed before going into 70% barrel and 30% amphora – Laski into barrel, Renski into amphora. The length of maceration on skins depends on vintage and grape. The Dolium is 100% whole cluster Muskat Ottonel with the whole fruit going into the amphora (juice, skins and stems) for six months. The wine is then decanted off the marc and then remains in amphora for another six months, until the next harvest, when it is transferred into wooden barrels for yet another 12 months. This is a sensational amber/orange wine, at once hedonistic yet with a powerful deep-rooted sense of place. A living wine that changes by the minute. The grapes for the Renski and Laski Rizlings are destemmed and macerated in open "bucket" (škaf) as it is important that a lot of oxygen is involved in the proces of maceration. When maceration is finished, everything goes to the press but just to drain it, without pressing anything! What is left from grapes goes to make brandy. Renski has a beautiful bronze colour and the merest suggestion of golden peach. Like all the Zorjan wines there is an earthiness, a rich textural component, and leesy spice. The longer it is exposed to air the more focused it becomes. Laski (the same grape as Welschriesling or Riesling Italico) is less aromatic and a tad more herbal, but has great intensity and length. Vivid aromas of ripe citrus fruits, spiced apples and plums. The palate is well-structured, taking only a gentle influence from the skin maceration, with beautiful fruit supported by subtle herbal/earthy characters. Persistent, mineral finish
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