Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
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- Bu sahifa navigatsiya:
- MOROCCO
- LEBANON
- ENGLAND
- CAMDEN TOWN BREWERY, KENTISH TOWN, London
- ROCKY HEAD BREWERY, Wandsworth, London
- (Mchadi)
- “tabaka
- “chakapuli”
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2016
GUERROUANE BLANC LES TROIS DOMAINES W
2016 GUERROUANE ROUGE LES TROIS DOMAINES R
DOMAINE RIAD JAMIL ROUGE, BENI M’TIR R
2011 CHATEAU ROSLANE 1 er CRU, COTEAUX DE L’ATLAS R
- 305 - MOROCCO Continued…
In Morocco, it’s possible to see the Atlantic and the Mediterranean at the same time. Tahar Ben Jelloun
VOLUBILIA, DOMAINE DE LA ZOUINA, Meknès In 2001 Gérard Gribelin and Philippe Gervoson fell in love with Domaine de la Zouina. Struck by the richness of the terroir, the particularity of the soil and the climate, they were certain that they could produce unique results and so they decided to translate their passion and wine-making savoir-faire from Pessac-Leognan to Morocco. Monsieur Gribelin has been running Château de Fieuzal for about thirty years. His son Christophe now runs Zouina. Monsieur Gervoson has been director of Château Larrivet Haut-Brion since 1987 To maximise the efficiency of the vines the work in the vineyard is meticulous. 4000 vines per hectare eliminates stress hydrique and canopy management achieves the best aeration for the vines and reduces the need for phytosanitary products. Quality is further enhanced by voluntary small yields, a green harvest at the beginning of summer and various tris which discard the grapes which do not merit being in the final blend. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah are the main varieties for the reds, with Tempranillo and Mourvèdre also planted. Our two intrepid Bordeaux brethren are exacting in the vinification of the wines and to that end have equipped the winery with the latest in equipment and technology. They enlarged and modernised the winery buildings, equipped the chais with a cold room to preserve the aromatic integrity of the harvest and also installed triage tables, introduced a gravity feeder to prevent crushing and subsequent oxidation of the grapes, not to mention vertical presses and small concrete tanks. The Gris has the translucent delicacy of a Provençale pink wine. Made from Marselan and Caladoc, it is elegant with good minerality and expression of red fruits. The red wines undergo an elevage of fifteen months. The Volubilia Rouge is distinguished by notes of leather, tobacco and mocha and is smooth and refined on the palate with well-integrated tannins. The Chardonnay has a warm tropical nose with flavours of custard and dessert apple. Big and attention-grabbing but complex nonetheless. Sweet apple, quince and green almonds with a musky finish.
2016 VOLUBILIA GRIS Ro
2015
EPICURIA CHARDONNAY W
2012 VOLUBILIA ROUGE R
EPICURIA SYRAH R
- 306 - LEBANON
CHATEAU MUSAR, Gazir Beshrew me, the tills are still alive with the sound of Musar. I’ll have a Beka’a’s dozen toot sweet.
considerable sediment and has a volatile nose. That is the nature of the beast. The nose is aromatic, fragrant, warm and mellow and it prepares the palate for fruits of cherries, strawberries and redcurrants. The palate is indeed full of these softer summer red berry fruits and combined with soft tannins, the wine is very well balanced. The Hochar has some Carignan and is characterised by spices and brambly Christmas cake fruits. The Château Musar rosé is deceptive – the colour is bright and a very light pink – almost onion skin in colour, giving the illusion of a delicate, elegant wine. The nose is of peaches, vanilla, strawberries and fruity apples. It is the palate, however, which shows its true power, round, rich and full. This wine has a touch of silk with almonds. And, finally, the white, bright golden straw colour with a nose of almonds, cashew nuts, hot buttery toast, 306elab brulée and honey. Rich warm toasty honey flavours on the palate together with fragrant herbs and spiced apples result in a very complex, rich and mellow wine. Grape varieties? Obaideh and Merwah, native to Lebanon, from vineyards high in the mountains (1,200 metres). 2008
CHATEAU MUSAR WHITE, BEKA’A VALLEY W
2012 HOCHAR PERE & FILS, GASTON HOCHAR R
CHATEAU MUSAR RED, BEKA’A VALLEY R
1999 CHATEAU MUSAR RED, BEKA’A VALLEY R
ENGLAND “Have some wine”, the March Hare said in an encouraging tone. Alice looked all round the table, but there was nothing on it but tea. “I don’t see any wine,” she remarked. “There isn’t any”, said the March Hare.
SORRY – NO ENGLISH WINE THIS YEAR! AND, LO, IT FINALLY CAME TO PASS...
The remains of a Roman vineyard have been found near the site of the BBC television studios in West London. Contrary to initial supposition they are not bush vines, but media-trained. (Wine News Headlines) DAVENPORT VINEYARD, LIMNEY FARM, ROTHERFIELD, WILL DAVENPORT, East Sussex – Organic At Davenport Vineyards, Will Davenport has been making wines for nearly 20 years, building from a small start up to a collection of vineyard sites that total 20 acres. The aim is to make wine of the highest quality possible and to make wine that is a true expression of their grape varieties, soil and climate of the vineyards. He believes that the best way to achieve this is by interfering as little as possible and letting nature take its course (with a modicum of guidance of course). The use of organic methods helps to bring the desired results and has the benefit of also minimising their impact on the environment. Copper and sulphur are used to control mildew, along with plant extracts made from seaweed, comfrey and nettles. Made from a blend of six grape varieties (including Bacchus, Ortega, Siegerrebe, Faber and Huxelrebe) grown in the original vineyard plot at Horsmonden, Kent. This wine has been made every year since 1993 and has won many accolades since then. The wine has been likened to a Sauvignon Blanc style and often mistaken for a NZ wine. It is crisp, aromatic and fruit driven with greengage and grapefruit flavours and pronounced hedgerow accents. The sparkling wine comes from Pinot Noir & Auxerrois grapes grown on the slopes of the home Rotherfield vineyard. A wine of rich minerality and great poise. 2016
LIMNEY VINEYARD “HORSMONDEN” WHITE W
2016 DAVENPORT PET NAT Sp
DAVENPORT SPARKLING AUXERROIS Sp
2013
DAVENPORT LIMNEY ORGANIC SPARKLING Sp
2014
DAVENPORT SPARKLING ROSE Sp/Ro
2016
LIMNEY ESTATE DIAMOND FIELDS PINOT NOIR R
- 307 -
CAMDEN TOWN BREWERY, KENTISH TOWN, London Jasper Cuppaidge’s family ran Queensland regional brewer MacLachlan’s in Australia, and, so when Jasper came to England, it wasn’t long before he decided to run his own pub. Taking over the Horseshoe in London’s leafy Hampstead six years ago, he soon began brewing in his pub cellar. Last year, he established the Camden Town Brewery – nestled beneath five railway arches on Wilkin Street Mews in North London. Today, he has four core beers: Camden Hells Lager, Camden Pale Ale, Camden Wheat Beer and Camden Bitter. Jasper’s intention is to make beers with delicious purity. They certainly have a crisp subtle elegance to them. “It’s a flavour that’s not huge and bolshy or non-existent so you’re in the mass market – it’s just great beer,” says Jasper. For the lager, Camden Town Brewery uses traditional German hop varieties and Perle, while on the pale ale it uses everything from Citra, Cascade and Centennial to Perle and Chinook. The British bitter is kept strictly traditional and so everything in the beer is native including the grain, while it combines Challenger, Fuggles and Goldings hops for flavour. While wheat beer certainly leans towards a yeast profile, inspired by Alios Unertl, the hops in it appear to be fairly minuscule. The brewery is inspired by self-sufficient models in the USA. “We are very efficient when it comes to reclaiming energy. All the power is maintained and it heats up the building. We’re also very water-efficient – we control the cold water tank so that we always know how hot it is,” says Jasper. “That way, no unnecessary water will be going down the drain. “I guess it is green intervention really. Where you would normally work on 11-12 pints, we’re down to between five and six pints of water used per pint produced, which is great.” Their three core beers are a lager, a pale ale and a wheat beer. Combining two beer styles into one, the crisp, dry body of a German-style Pilsner with the gentle hopping of a Helles to create a truly drinkable style. A classic lager, crisp and dry with beautiful bubbles. Clean and refreshing with a dry hop finish, you can taste the great depth of flavour which comes from the long, slow maturation in tank. . The Pale Ale benefits from the addition of some maris otter malt to the mash for extra body. This is fruity and inviting thanks to Centennials and Cascades, the sort of body which can carry hops with ease, a background sweetness with the foreground hop bitterness and aroma. It’s accessible, balanced and easy drinking. Pils is Camden’s version of a kellerpils (unfiltered pilsner), dosed up with a good amount of U.S. hops. Sharp, with a piney aroma and reassuring bitterness: The lightness of lager balanced with a dry and elegant hop character. Modern, fragrant and aromatic. A new favourite drink-anytime beer. Gentleman’s Wit uses a mixture of wheat and pale malt and Perle hops. A Belgian brew with an English accent. Classic white beer spiked with roasted lemons and fragrant with bergamot. Cloudy pale yellow with a fluffy foam, there’s fragrant lemon and bergamot and a smooth, full body with a spicy finish. It started as a one-off brew: Imagine how good a wit would taste with slow- roasted lemons giving their caramelised pithy sweetness and sharp citrus juice, plus the floral freshness of bergamot.
CAMDEN TOWN HELLS LAGER – 330ml Lager
CAMDEN TOWN HELLS LAGER – 330ml – CANS Lager
CAMDEN TOWN USA HELLS UNFILTERED LAGER – 330ml Lager
CAMDEN TOWN PALE ALE – 330ml Pale Ale
Wheat
ROCKY HEAD BREWERY, Wandsworth, London
Rocky Head was set up in 2012 by a group of friends who wanted to make beers that they wanted to drink. There were too many dull brown beers and faceless lagers and the new wave of aggressively hopped “Craft” brews were often over-hopped, bitter and not very drinkable. The beers reflect the wine background of the brewers involved. Complexity, balance and minerality are what they strive to achieve. The beers are small batch brewed. A typical brew is 600 litres. Only floor malted English malts are used and lots of leaf hops are added at every stage of the brewing process. Also, a judicious use of hop pellets are added in the later stages for added spice and complexity. The beers are not fined or filtered and undergo a natural secondary fermentation in the bottle just like Champagne. All the beers are hand bottled and labelled. The American Pale is an easy drinking golden ale with moderate bitterness together with the characteristic grapefruit tang of Cascade hops. It is an aromatic, easy drinking beer that will appeal to lovers of modern hoppy pale ales.
ROCKY HEAD BREWERYAMERICAN PALEALE – 330 ml Pale Ale
- 308 - GEORGIA Orange is commonly associated with amusement, the unconventional, extroverts, warmth, fire, energy, activity, danger, taste and aroma. Mythological paintings traditionally showed Bacchus, the god of wine, ritual madness and ecstasy, dressed in orange. Many orange wines are a potent pleasing cocktail of wild aromatics, warm energy and mucho mirth.
Georgia is one of the birthplaces of wine culture and wild vines – Vitis Vinifera Silvestris are still widely distributed across the country. Archaeologists and historians have discovered evidence and material artefacts including seven thousand year old grape seeds and antique vessels (pruning knives, stone presses etc.) as well as written testimony of foreign chroniclers and travellers. According to a poem by Apollonius Rhodius, the Argonauts, having arrived at the capital Colchis, saw twining vines at the entrance to the king’s palace and a fountain of wine in the shade of the trees. That Homer, Strabon and Procopius of Caesaria used to mention it in their works leads wine historians to surmise that it was the Transcaucasus, especially Georgia, which was the native land of the first known cultured grape varieties and that it was also from here that the vine spread to many European countries. Xenophon in the 5 th
Wine’s name itself is of Georgian origin “Gvino” and October, harvest month, is named “Gvinobistve” (the month of wine). Mosaics attest to the influence of the Georgian wine god “Aguna”. The cult of grapevine and wine forms part of the Georgian psyche – present from spiritual and religious symbolism to the more earthbound aspects of life. In the first part of the IV century St. Nino arrived in Georgia bringing the word of Christianity with an upheld cross made in the shape of an intertwined grapevine arbour. Georgians venerate the vine and its product, and wherever wine is served, a toast is voiced and big-hearted, misty-eyed oratory issues forth. Wine as evidenced from the Georgian folklore and history is used for solemn or mournful ritual, in copious quantities and rarely, if ever, diluted. The French traveller, Chardin, wrote in the 17 th century, that there was “no other country in the world in which wine was so good and drunk so amply, as in Georgia.”
confer the sacraments. Only the lid remained. He stood and, so as to underline the drama of the occasion, trod deliberately around its circumference. I edged closer and willed him to take the final step. As the lid came away, a raspberry haze rose from the ground and was swept away on the breeze. A crimson mirror reflected the scudding clouds – 400 litres of fresh young wine. The barber took his ladle and scooped out the first glass and handed it to me. I raised it to my mouth and drank. It was a moment of magical intensity. “It’s saperavi,” he said, referring to the grape, which in Georgian means pigment. It was densely red and cool and stained my lips like blood. Georgia and its vineyards had taken over a corner of my mind.
Rob Parsons – BBC’s From Our Own Correspondent
- 309 - GEORGIA Continued…
Georgian cuisine uses familiar products but due to varying proportions of its obligatory recurrent ingredients such as walnut, aromatic herbs, garlic, vinegar, red pepper, pomegranate grains, barberries and other spices combined with the traditional secrets of the chef’s art the common products acquire a special taste and aroma, which make Georgian cuisine very popular and unique. Georgian national cuisine is notable for an abundance of all possible kinds of meat, fish and vegetables, various sorts of cheese, pickles and distinctive pungent seasonings.
A hypothetical guest invited to the hypothetical Georgian table is first of all offered the golden-brown khachapuri which is a thin pie filled with mildly salted cheese; then he is asked to try lobio (ripened from fresh green beans) which in every family is cooked according to a household recipe; stewed chicken in a garlic sauce; small river fish “tsotskhali” cooked when it is still alive; sheat-fish in vinegar with finely chopped fennel; lori, a sort of ham; muzhuzhi, boiled and vinegared pig’s trotters; cheese “sulguni” roasted in butter, pickled aubergines and green tomatoes which are filled with the walnut paste seasoned with vinegar, pomegranate seeds and aromatic herbs; the vegetable dish “pkhali” made of finely chopped beet leaves or of spinach mixed with the walnut paste, pomegranate seeds and various spices. In East Georgia you will be offered wheaten bread baked on the walls of “tone”, which is a large cylinder-like clay oven, resembling a jar, while in West Georgia you will be treated to hot maize scones (Mchadi) baked on clay frying-pans “ketsi”.
Soup fiends will be enchanted by the fiery rice and mutton soup “kharcho”, the tender chicken soup “chikhirtma” with eggs whipped in vinegar and the transparent light meat broth flavoured with garlic, parsley and fennel.
Experienced voluptuaries and Anthony Bourdain will not be able to resist the savoury chizhi-pizhi, pieces of liver and spleen roasted in butter and whipped eggs; crisp chicken “tabaka” served with the pungent sourish sauce “satsivi. Other specialities include the melt-in-the- mouth sturgeon grilled on a spit; the chicken sauce “chakhokhbili” in a hot tomato and dressing; the Kakhetian dish “chakapuli” made of young lamb in a slightly sourish juice of damson, herbs and onion; and roasted small sausages “kupati” stuffed with finely chopped pork, beef and mutton mixed with red pepper and barberries.
Everyone in Georgia is fond of “Khashi”, a broth cooked from beef entrails (legs, stomach, udder, pieces of head, bones) and lavishly seasoned with garlic. There is a quote to the effect that “the onion soup in Paris and the khashi soup in Tbilisi serve the same purpose. They are eaten by the same people- by hard workers to make themselves stronger and by revellers to cure a hangover”. And another saying which holds: “Everyone who saws, transports, builds, sweeps the neighbouring streets, makes shoes, digs ditches eats khashi in the morning”.
Still on a meaty theme there are legion devotees of Khinkali, a sort of strongly peppered mutton dumpling and a favourite dish with the mountain dwellers of Georgia. Like everywhere in the Caucasus, mcvadi (shashlik) is very popular in Georgia. Depending on a season, it is made with pork or mutton.
The Georgian table is conducted in accordance with the ancient ritual. The head of the table, “tamada”, is elected by the host. The tamada must be a man of humour with a capacity for verbal improvisation and the wisdom of a philosopher. (Presumably many philosophers are born in their cups). If there are many guests at the table he appoints assistants, known as “tolumbashis”. The tamada’s toasts follow one another in a specific and never-violated order. The guest is obliged to listen attentively to each toast and appreciate the beauty of rhetorical style as well as the purport of the words. It is not allowed to interrupt the tamada when he is saying the toast. The tamada’s assistants and other guests may only add something to the toast or develop its ideas. If you wish to say a toast, you must by all means have the tamada’s consent or else you will find yourself in an awkward position. This table ritual does not put restraints on the guests but maintains discipline at the table. The feast proceeds among jokes and is accompanied by a dance competition, table songs and music, quotations and aphorisms from the works of poets and writers.
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