Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
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- CANTINA TOBLINO, Trentino - Organic
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TRENTINO-ALTO-ADIGE
Trentino cuisine maintains its traditional ingredients: sausages and salamis, pork, the cheeses, polenta, sauerkraut, the ‘canederli’ in all its variations, and the “salada” (salted) beef, an ancient dish known from the time of the Council of Trent, that important historical period that saw the city of Trent as an important capital. It wasn’t until the 20 th century, when this area became part of the kingdom of Italy, that Trentino cuisine actually started adding to its diet dishes typical to the rest of Italy; for example, the ‘pastasciutta’ (pasta dishes). Trentino has its roots in ‘canederli’ and ‘gnocchi’, rather than in homemade pasta. The “smacafam”, is a savoury torte filled with garlic and covered with fresh luganega pork sausage. This is a typical festival dish during the MardiGras Carnival. The “gröstl” is another traditional peasant dish, useful for recycling leftover meat, made simply with coarsely cut up pieces of up meat sautéed in butter with chunks of boiled potatoes covered with finely chopped chives. Boiled potatoes sautéed in butter, mashed and then covered with chopped parsley are also a typical Trentino style fare.
Among the richer dishes let’s not forget Lepre –Trentino style, a sweet and sour ‘salmì’ recipe found only in this area. The hare meat is marinated it in wine and vinegar for at least twenty-four hours with all sorts of spices, plenty of onions, pine nuts and sultanas, then broiled. Stuffed chicken is another favourite speciality of the area. The stuffing is prepared with walnuts, pine nuts, bread doused in milk, liver, eggs and boiled meat. It can be served with various sauces, but especially with the tasty fruit ‘mustard’ of mandarin oranges. There are only a few types of fish: salmon trout from the streams which is smoked and cooked in various fashions. Eel Trentino style is cut up and sautéed in butter with onions and spices. Baked dried cod made with potatoes, butter, oil, garlic, onions, celery, milk, salt and pepper is another favourite dish served with polenta. Wild mushrooms (ceps, chanterelles, chiodini and russole) are stewed and eaten with polenta. The Trentino desserts are very similar to those in Alto-Adige, with one exception – the strudel is made with apples only. Trentino ‘krapfen’ can be baked instead of deep fried, giving the doughnuts a lighter touch. Bread pudding pie is a typical Trentino dessert, made with stale bread soaked in milk, then mixed with fruit, flour, sugar and walnuts. The ‘Fregoletti’ pie is made with white flour, butter, sugar and almonds. ‘Zelten’, the Christmas speciality is made with rye flour in Alto-Adige, whereas in Trentino it is made with white flour, eggs, yeast, candied fruit, and plenty of dried fruit, all covered with split almonds. The cuisine from the Trentino is strongly characterized by its geographical position, its climate and its history. Despite tourism, it has remained deeply rooted to its origins, like the tradition of eating meat accompanied with fruit mustard (to take one of the most obvious examples).
Smoked meat reigns supreme in Alto-Adige, typical of cold climates, from cattle used to spending long nights outdoes and grazing on fragrant grass in the fields at high altitude. There’s nothing tastier than the local “speck”, boneless pork meat cut in small square pieces and placed in saltpetre with garlic, laurel, juniper, pepper and other herbs that vary according to secret family traditions handed down from one generation to another. The “speck” is then hung in the smokehouse which must be well aerated. The smoke grazes the meat only a few hours a day and the temperature must be low. Each farmer has his secrets: the wood must be sweet and enriched with branches of fresh juniper. The best “speck” is homemade and is ready in the autumn because the slaughter usually takes place in February. In Alto Adige “speck” is eaten for breakfast, at noon as an antipasto, and as an afternoon snack.
The cuisine of Alto-Adige has an Austrian influence and it’s hard to find the typical Italian flavours. Ingredients, spices, and combinations unknown to the other regions are used here. There are few greens and soups, but dishes such as canederli, large balls made with stale bread, flour, milk, and eggs with liver, bacon, salame and even greens. Depending on the ingredients, the name of the dish changes: Canederli di Fegato, Tirolesi, Neri, etc. Canederli are served as a soup, boiled in water or broth and placed in a tureen with boiling broth, or boiled and then served with goulash. They can also be prepared with dried prunes where the pitted prune is inserted in the canederli, dipped in crumbs, and boiled. Yum – or maybe not…
CANTINA TOBLINO, Trentino - Organic Founded in 1960 by a small group of growers, who perceived the potential quality of wines produced in the Lakes Valley Cantina Toblino collects and vinifies the grapes of about 600 associated small farmers. Thanks to the constant ventilation coming from the nearby Garda Lake, soils with extremely varied compositions and an altitude band ranging from 150 to 800 m a.s.l., every different grape variety expresses in the final wine outstanding varietal notes. Vineyards located in the plain of the River Sarca (150-400 m a.s.l.) benefit from a particular dry and airy climate. Gravelly soils and the interaction between the "Ora del Garda", a warm wind coming from the south-west of Lake Garda in the afternoons, and the cooler winds coming from the north, blowing through the narrow valley of Limarò, ensure a wide temperature range between daytime and the night. Cooler vineyards located in the hills and mountains of the Cavedine Valley and Bleggio near Stenico, imbue grapes such as Müller Thurgau and Kerner with unique aroma and elegance. The Gewurztraminer is intensely aromatic, subtle, persistent and spicy with hints of grapefruit and ripened peaches which complete the classic notes of rose, flora and honey. The Pinot Grigio is graceful and fruity with perfumes of williams pear and yellow plum. A structured but discreet palate, elegant with a pleasant touch of acidity with gives a freshness and a sensation of cleanliness in the mouth. Kerner offers a typically ample and seductive bouquet, with hints of fruits and undertones reminiscent of aromatic herbs and a characteristic mineral note. This wine has a good power and density, subtle, with a good aromatic persistence. With its pale straw colour with a distinctive green tinge the Müller Thurgau expresses intense and elegant sensations typical of the variety, with pleasant aromatic notes. To the palate this wine is dry, fresh and has a persistent length. 2016
PINOT GRIGIO W
2015 MULLER-THJURGAU W
KERNER W
2015 GEWURZTRAMINER W
- 239 - TRENTINO-ALTO-ADIGE Continued…
The cliffs of the Adige Valley change their appearance as the light shifts across them: awe inspiring when they are veiled by shade or darkened by a heavy sky; and enchanting when the sun shines on them, as they are tinted with delicate shades of pink. The river too changes its mood as the weather changes: when there is bad weather, its rough waters become a whirlpool of green and blue, while on calm evenings they become a sparkling silver ribbon. No one with a sensitive soul can cross this land without being touched by its beauty. After the narrow Salorno Gorge, visitors travelling from the north are welcomed by the marvellous sight of a wide valley. Vineyards and orchards are scattered among these rocky outcrops. Near San Michele all’Adige, on the right bank of the Adige River, a wide plain unfolds beneath the mountains: its name is Campo Rotaliano. This is where the Teroldego, one of the country’s best grapes, thrives. It is no coincidence that this striking landscape marks the linguistic and cultural boundary between the Tyrol and Trentino, between north and south – an invisible border, yet nevertheless a border. The Noce valley, Campo Rotaliano with the towns of Mezzolombardo and Mezzocorona, has seen tribes and rulers come and go – Rhaeto-Etruscan settlers, the Romans, Celts, Longobards, Franks, Tyroleans, Austrians, Bavarians and Italians. Whether conquerors or settlers, traders or mercenaries, all have left their mark at this crossroads where valleys, rivers and mountain ranges converge and diverge. Campo Rotaliano offers the opportunity of discovering a grape variety that has been cultivated for centuries in a context rich in contrasts and history. Always exceptional, Teroldego has for long been considered a grape of unique character giving wines with “the body and robustness of a Bordeaux”, being “somewhat rougher” and possessing “strong varietal attributes” and “a little acidity”. These are words used to describe it by a 19 th -century wine connoisseur. The Teroldego grape is medium-sized and deep in colour. Its vines need rigorous pruning. Depending on the year and the weather, the grapes ripen relatively early. The first written document in which Teroldego is mentioned by name is dated 1383, when one Nicolò da Povo undertook to give a certain Agnes, who lent him money, a ‘tun’ (around 250 gallons) of Teroldego by way of interest. Between the 14 th and 17 th centuries, Teroldego was grown between Campo Rotaliano and Rovereto. It is spoken of in 16 th -century Mezzolombardo when it gained a foothold in Campo Rotaliano. Elsewhere its use has waned. Time and again the “great potential” of this wine is cited. It has even proven its robustness to oidium (1890) and phylloxera (1912). Today’s area of cultivation is quite small, amounting to only about 400 hectares, 73 per cent of which yields DOC wines. The Campo Rotaliano vineyard has been divided up in the course of time into many small plots, all of which are cultivated with great care, since the land was scarce and hence precious. Of course, any attempt at forcing this process and any imbalance in the vineyard leads to a breach in the bond linking a grape variety to a territory. Easy and seemingly effective “technologies” increase the distance between the vineyard and hence the wine from its identity and its originality. These are the inspiring principles of Elisabetta Foradori’s work in her vineyards. The climate and soil are elements that cannot be modified, while the work of man can lead to deep changes in the grapevine. Clonal selection in the 1970s led to the homogenisation of the Teroldego grape variety and hence to its genetic impoverishment: very few clones aimed exclusively at increasing the yield were developed. The limited area cultivated with Teroldego grapes (about 400 ha in Campo Rotaliano) was soon covered completely with the clonal material. The result is that today almost all of the vineyards are cultivated with only this variety of Teroldego.
the variety’s diversity. After identifying the estate’s oldest vineyard, she started with the careful selection and multiplication of the plant specimens that had the required quality features. Their monitoring over the years led to a further selection and it was followed by others reaching up to this day. Foradori has selected 15 Teroldego biotypes that she uses for replanting. They are the qualitative “backbone” of her wines. Ensuring a vineyard’s utmost diversity is the best possible guarantee of obtaining great qualitative results. This is the idea behind all of the work that follows in the vineyard, aimed at reaching the variety’s perfect balance thus allowing it to express itself in full and exalt its whole potential and uniqueness . There are two distinct levels of quality that Elisabetta Foradori has aimed at producing from Teroldego: the first is the ‘Foradori’, marked by the purity, dignity and intensity of the fruit. Soft yet penetrating its sweetness is backed by a supporting acidity that weaves elegantly amongst the fruit. The second, called ‘Granato’ is a wine of greater strength, harmony, depth and nobility. Deep, almost shy on the first nose, it reveals itself as the aromas come into focus: wild berries and candied fruit make way for roasted hazelnuts, baked bread, leather, eucalyptus and pomegranate, then the full robust palate shows plenty of temptingly chewy flesh. The vines are cultivated on different terroirs (varying quantities of pebbles and gravel), with different exposures and with differing quality potential. Despite the area being quite small, Campo Rotaliano offers a great variety of soils at a distance of just a few hundreds of metres. Another element that distinguishes these two wines is the age of the vines, the planting density and the grape yield per vine. The grapes are vinified separately, plot by plot, and only after ageing in wood are the wines from different parcels of vines blended to obtain an ideal balance. 2015
FONTANASANTA NOSIOLA VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI BIANCO – amphora W
2016 FONTANASANTA MANZONI BIANCO VIGNETI DELLE DOLIIMITI W
PINOT GRIGIO FUORIPISTA - amphora W
2015 FORADORI TEROLDEGO ROTALIANO DOC R
SGARZON IGT – amphora R
2015 MOREI IGT – amphora R
GRANATO, VIGNETI DELLE DOLOMITI ROSSO IGT R
- 240 - TRENTINO-ALTO-ADIGE Continued…
I’m getting oak with plummy overtones -
Frasier
VILAR, LUIGI SPAGNOLI, Trentino - Organic Vini Dolimitici are 11 producers united by friendship, solidarity, and a common vision of agriculture in the Trentino. Their desire is to promote the region’s diversity and originality with respect for nature and ethical concerns. I Liberi Viticoltori Trentini is composed of the following wineries: Castel Noarna, Cesconi, Dalzocchio, Elisabetta Foradori, Eugenio Rosi, Fanti, Francesco Poli, Gino Pedrotti, Maso Furli, Molino dei Lessi and Vilar. They are all either organically certified or moving in that direction. Additionally, most of them are also looking to become biodynamic in the near future. They mostly harvest by hand and make sure that their soils are as healthy as possible by companion planting other crops in their vineyards. They believe in an integrated system of agriculture and do not believe in the use of pesticides, artificial fertilizers and other chemical products. They feel the old-fashioned ways that grapes were traditionally grown in their region keep the vineyards in their own natural balance. Luigi Vilar has always been a winegrower and winemaker. He started with his family estate in Isera before starting his own vineyard. He now has 4 ha planted with Nosiola, Marzemino, Lagrein, Teroldego. The Nosiola is from rocky soils over clay at 430m asl. The grapes are destemmed and fermented with their own yeasts in stainless steel tank after two days of skin contact. The malolactic happens naturally, there is no filtration or fining and only a small amount of sulphur added. Marzemino , the grape most noted for its mention in the opera Don Giovanni of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart ("Versa il vino! Eccellente Marzimino!") has a brilliant purple and a flavour dark bitter chocolate coated plums. 2015
NOSIOLA IGT VALLAGARINA W
2015 MARZEMINO R
WEINGUT UNTERMOSERHOF, GEORG RAMOSER, BOLZANO, Alto-Adige The Santa Magdalener wine is produced in some districts of the communes of Bolzano, Terlano, San Genesio and Renon. Its name derives from that of a hamlet in Bolzano. Made in limited quantities this aromatic wine goes well with the robust game dishes of the Alps. It was reported in the 19 th century that it was the only wine capable of properly accompanying the succulent delicacy of “bear’s paw” (Exit stage left pursued by bear with bottle of Santa Magdalener). The wine is produced from Schiava grapes. Georg Ramoser’s Santa Magdalener estate is tiny with only two and a half hectares and another couple that are rented. The Lagrein is what Ramoser is renowned for, especially the Riserva. Ruby red with a nose of coffee, pencil box and berry-skin fruit. The big rich palate offers big sweet tannins and charming mineral touches. Before you pour it into your glass let it tarry briefly in a decanter or a jug, then tuck into venison with red cabbage or ham and sauerkraut... 2016
SUDTIROL ST MAGDALENER KLASSISCH R
2016 SUDTIROLER LAGREIN R
WEINGUT NIKLAS, KALTERN, Alto-Adige The Niklaserhof winery is located in the St Nikolaus region 570m above sea level at the foot of the Mendel mountain range. The location is tranquil surrounded by vineyards with a wonderful view of the Dolomites, the upper Etsch river valley and Lake Kaltern. The Lagrein is vivid ruby red with intense aromas of red berries, grass and sweet violets. A light wine worth serving on the fresh side. 2015
SUDTIROLER LAGREIN R
BRUNO GOTTARDI, MAZZON, Alto-Adige Bruno Gottardi is known in Austria as a great wine expert and wine merchant with shops in Innsbruck and Vienna. Recently, he has also acquired a reputation as an excellent wine producer. In 1986 he bought Sarnheimhof, a winery located in the village of Mazzon, in the wine-growing region of Unterland, the heart of Sud-Tirol’s best Blauburgunder area or Blauburgunder-Himmel as they say locally. Having replanted the vineyard, training the vines on wires, he built a new winery, and in 1995 produced his first vintage. These are impressively grown-up Pinots. The “basic” Blauburgunder is very much the expression of vintage. The fruit is heady and jammy, reminiscent of sweet plums and blackberries, but there is a backbone that keeps you returning to it. The reserve version is glorious, that ineffable Pinot mixture of enticing primary fruit (violets, red and black cherries) and the secondary whiffs of tobacco and truffle. 2014
SUDTIROL BLAUBURGUNDER R
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Continued… Up and Down In the Adige – Blauburgunder Himmel
First stop was Georg Ramoser’s Untermosenhof winery. A huge unkempt hound met us; his intentions were friendly despite a notice on the door of the winery which announced that he was hungry and likely to devour unwary strangers. Georg led us up the hill towards the Sankt Magdalener church which gives its name to the wine made from the Schiava grape. The vineyards (mostly organic) were spectacular, carpeted with poppies, lush with grass with the vines trained in the old pergola fashion. From our vantage point we had the most amazing views, but not as amazing as the cable car that traversed from one side of the mountains to the other. At our feet was Bolzano, behind us a massive ridge covered in forest and vines, to the north the snow capped Dolomites and all around us a sea of wild green foliage. We discovered more almond trees which had shed their bounty on the path and whilst Georg was talking some of us were cracking nuts with rocks. Yes, we were really that hard up for a mid morning snack.
The generous pergola vines seem so much more real than the stunted twigs that are trained up wires. Most of the growers in the region have abandoned them in favour of more modern trellising systems, but their extensive canopies offer shade and respite from the battering sun. The baking stones and the drip-drip of the irrigation hose were testament to the heat and sun of the climate. As Andrew Marvell wrote: “Annihilating all that’s made/To green thoughts/In a green shade.”
Back at the winery we sat down at two large refectory tables and tasted the small range of wines that Ramoser makes. By this time we had been joined by the winemaker from Tenuta Falkenstein (or Frankenstein as we predictably called the winery). Falkenstein means falcon’s rock by the way.
Looking down the hill from Santa Maddalena
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