O’zbekiston respublikasi oliy va o’rta maxsus ta’lim vazirligi buxoro davlat universiteti viloyat to’xsanova

GOLD EMBROIDERY ART 
Gold embroidery craft is one of the oldest crafts in the world, embroidered 
with gold threads and embroidery, by embroidery patterns and flowers. In the 

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people it is called "Zarduzi", which means gold embroidery, hence the name of 
the craft. This kind of art has an ancient history. Homeland is considered ancient 
Babylon, and belonged to the Roman Empire. The first gold-embroidered 
products were sewn from gold threads, wool and silk. Moreover, the threads 
were combined, and embroidered with colorful patterns. In ancient Byzantium, 
gold-embroidered products were worn only by the Emperor and persons close to 
the court, as well as notable people. As a result of trade and political relations 
with Byzantium, gold embroidery craft passed into the Palace of the Persian 
kings. The development of gold-sewing art in Persia is evidenced by the 
examples of gold-sewing art of the XV-XVIII Centuries. Gold embroidery art 
came to Russia from Byzantium. In Asia Minor, gold embroidery art developed 
in the XIII-XVII Centuries. As a result, gold embroidery art spread to regions 
where it had a strong influence. 
In Central Asia, gold embroidery is considered one of the oldest forms 
of art, and is one of the most common types of folk art. From archaeological 
finds and records can be learned that in the I-II Centuries BC among the Central 
Asian peoples wore gold-embroidered items and clothing. 
The Samarkand poet Fitrat, who lived in the XVII century, was a goldsmith 
by profession, he embroidered beautiful patterns of gold.
The master is not officially elected to the post of spiritual mentor 
artisans, not publicly followed the spiritual and moral foundations and issues of 
religion, as well as the integrity of the artisans of gold embroidery. In those rare 
cases, when master Usto Fitrat was absent, this was followed by the aksakal of 
craftsmen. Aksakal was an intermediary between the artisans and the Palace of 
the Emir, between the administration of the government and the society of 
artisans. The duties of the aksakal included the equal distribution of orders 
between artisans, to resolve trade disputes and disputes between the master and 
his pupil. 
In the era of feudalism, like all crafts, gold embroidery craft developed 
rapidly. Because, respect and attention to each craft was so high that the masters 
were respected and honored, and therefore they treated the case with all their 
heart and soul. According to the masters of gold embroidery, the very first 
teacher was "PIR Hazrat Yusuf" (PIR is like the Holy spirit, or guardian angel, 
Hazrat is people who know their business, who have reached to the very heights 
of knowledge). About this among the masters of gold embroidery there is a 
belief; "If the master will read before work prayer dedicated to the Feast "Arohi 
feast" (Arohi PIR means the Holy spirit of the great master, guardian angel 
crafts), the case is complete. On the eve of "Guli Surkh" (Red flower) that is, in 
the first days of spring are masters of gold embroidery near the tomb of St. 
theologian Bahauddin Nisbase donated and distributed to those in need. 
(Bahouddin Naqshbandi is one of the Holy places of the founder of Naqshbandi 
teachings in Sufism). Muazzin and Mullah reading the prayer explained the 
prayers read and told the story of the emergence of gold embroidery, the rules of 
conduct of the master, the intricacies of the craft and the morality of artisans.

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And also in the Palace of the Emir there was a special court of gold embroidery, 
here the masters sewed exclusively for the rulers and distinguished guests. 
Material for gold embroidery was provided from the Treasury of the ruler. 
In addition, gold sewing workshops existed not only in the Palace of the 
ruler, but also outside it, there was even a whole street of masters of gold 
embroidery.
In the 20 years of the twentieth century, after the establishment of 
Soviet power, gold embroidery craft fell into decline, as the supply of gold 
threads from Afghanistan, Iran, Russia practically ceased. During this period, 
the tools of gold embroidery also changed. However, at this time there were 
other items of gold embroidery like, women's sleeveless jackets, women's 
Slippers, cases for glasses, gold-embroidered skullcaps and much more. During 
the reign of the Emir, gold embroidery was worn exclusively by men and sewed 
only by men. There was a belief that if a woman sits down to gold embroidery, 
the gold can lose its luster. 1930 in Tashkent organized the artel of gold 
embroidery at the Association of artists of the Republic of Uzbekistan, where 
experienced masters and artisans were invited. Then the artel grew and opened 
the first factory in the Republic of gold embroidery. With the opening of the 
factory, the number of craftsmen and workers increased dramatically. It was at 
this time that such eminent masters as people's artist Olimjon Mazhitov, masters 
of gold embroidery Faizullo gaibullayev, Nurmat Sultonov, Umar Hayotov and 
many others appeared and revealed their talents.They began to sew on new 
technologies, and produced many household items. Over time, products made of 
gold embroidery entered the house as a household item and decor, such as 
special covers for pillows or for the sofa, special caps for teapots and carpets for 
the walls, such carpets are mainly hung in the house of newlyweds. 
One of the greatest masters of gold embroidery was Bukhara master 
Numon Alimov. He was born in Bukhara to a family of goldsmiths. His father 
worked in the workshop of the Bukhara Emir Alimkhan, 12 years old and was in 
good standing. The father taught his son to work from an early age, for many 
years he taught the intricacies of the craft. The works of Numon Alimov are 
kept in many museums as the main exhibit of the exposition. Numon Alimov 
developed new methods and methods of gold embroidery and passed it on to his 
students.