DOMAINE LE BATOSSAY, BAPTISTE COUSIN, Anjou – Biodynamic
Download 6.21 Mb.Pdf ko'rish
- Bu sahifa navigatsiya:
- LES VIGNES HERBEL , LAURENT NADEGE LELANDAIS, Anjou – Biodynamic Les Vignes Herbel
DOMAINE LE BATOSSAY, BAPTISTE COUSIN, Anjou – Biodynamic
The domaine is located in Martigne-Briamd, 30 km south of Angers. Baptiste has a variety of grapes planted on different soils
such as schist, limestone and clay. The Grolleau Noir was planted over 40 years ago. All vineyard activity is organic; Baptiste
uses two horses to help the cultivation and reduces the amount of copper and sulphur sprayed, availing himself of tisanes and
other herbal decoctions to nourish the soil. He vinifies without any additives and with zero addition of sulphur dioxide. As he
says himself: The vinification is an accompaniment to the fermentation of the grape juice and not a correction of it. He does a
carbonic maceration for his reds, the maceration of whole grapes for his Grolleau Noir taking 10 days. The wine then spends 6
months in tank before being bottled without filtration or fining. Ouech Cousin lit translated as Yo Bro (or Yo Cousin?) is a
frank and friendly Grolleau (Yo Grolleau) pour soif. Tick off its nat wine credentials – three horses, BD, pas de sulphur,
filtration, fining. Grolleau is back on the menu.
Canine is doggone Chenin from old vines with some ageing. Long in the mouth, with plenty of Angevin woof.
Puppet Nat is Grolleau Gris with its classic secondary ferment in the bottle on the lees and hand-disgorged. Dynamitage is
from the same Gamay vines that Olivier used to make his Yamag. Whole cluster fermentation and then aged in barriques – no
- 107 -
DOMAINE STEPHANE BERNAUDEAU, Anjou – Biodynamic
Stéphane trained in the Loire region to be a ‘bûcheron’ (lumberjack/ logger/woodman.). It was not ok so he ended up working
for the great Mark Angeli in the village of Thouarcé, where he still helps out to this day. In 1999 he started working for
himself, farming a few acres before acquiring a patchwork of parcels, partly rented and partly purchased. Currently he has a
total of 2.5 hectares of vines consisting of three parcels of Chenin, one of which is located at Aubigné –sur-Layon, another at
Thouarcé and the last one in the village of Cornu as well as two devoted to red vines, one Gamay, the other Grolleau and
Cabernet, both situated in Thouarcé.
schist. After a maceration of eight days the wine undergoes an ambient fermentation of eleven months (whole bunch).
Stéphane observes that “it’s the wine that decides on the temperature of the fermentation”. No filtration, no fining, no
sulphur, eleven months in used oak barrels.
Utterly agreeable tasty red wine with the thirst dial firmly set to quench. Red and bramble fruits (with the prickles left in), a
healthy score of acidity and a little carbon dioxide lurking underneath. Responds well to chilling.
Terres Blanches is from 80-year-old low-yielding Chenin vines. Grapes are first pressed then fermented in (used) oak barrels
for twelve months. Stéphane allows a partial malolactic intentionally in order to conserve the wine’s acidity. The wine is then
aged for twelve months in used oak barrels, is neither filtered, nor fined and given a small amount of sulphur.
So where does this sit in our Chenin pantheon? Roasted almonds leading into beeswax, some sweet apples and quinces
opening out to reveal some beautiful aromas and flavours of fresh cut pineapple and honey. Sumptuous and rich with a
suggestion of waxed apples, herbs and cheese, a touch of wood tannin grip. A profound wine, this would age for fifteen to
Les Nourrissons is a 100-year-old one hectare plot of Chenin Blanc and Verdelho, biodynamically farmed, producing
on average 1,000 bottles a year. Stéphane ploughs with a horse, picks ripe, makes a natural ferment and ages for
fourteen months on the lees in barrels used for three wines. This is a wine of power, tension, acidity and fantastic
Les Onglets is the newest white wine in Stéphane's cellar. It comes from a 2-hectare parcel of 30 year old Chenin Blanc
planted on schist. Vinification is done in used barrels with the wine staying on its lees for 12 months before being bottled
without fining or filtration. Stéphane’s tasting note for this wine is succinct, describing it as « un vin avec une belle fraicheur
et une grande minéralité, bouche dans un premier temps avec une belle attaque acide puis un côté salin sur la finale un vin
encore jeune 107eper faut savoir attendre. »
VIN DE FRANCE “LES ONGLETS SUR SCHIST”
VIN DE FRANCE “NOURRISSONS”
LES VIGNES HERBEL, LAURENT & NADEGE LELANDAIS, Anjou – Biodynamic
Les Vignes Herbel is the project of Laurent Herbel and Nadège Lelandais who started in 2005 and now have a three-hectare
parcel of vines at Rochefort-sur-Loire called La Pointe on a terroir of purple schist and clay. This includes 1.4 ha of Chenin
Blanc planted in 1920 and 1.6 ha of Cabernet (70% Franc and 30% Sauvignon) planted in 1974. They farm organically and
biodynamically. La Pointe Chenin 1920 is a true vin de garde with a long elevage in wood. A beautiful wine that expresses the
potential of the Chenin. Earthy and rich with a great balance of sweet fruit, acid and minerality. It smells like Chenin, fine spun
wool, heather honey, punctilious acidity chiselled to an arrowhead designed to bring a bead of appreciative persp to your
forehead. Reverie is a blend of two vintages (2006 & 2010) and is from botrytised grapes (5hl/ha) harvested at the beginning of
November. This is the first time that it has been made and only because the conditions were propitious. The nectar is luscious
indeed (215 grams residual sugar), but avoids being heavy due to the wonderful streak of lemony acidity that drives the fruit
from beginning to end.
LA RUE AUX LOUPS
LA POINTE CHENIN « VIEILLES VIGNES DE 1920 »
- 108 -
DOMAINE AGNES & RENE MOSSE, Anjou – Biodynamic
…toutefois l’absorption de 184646 bouteilles de vin d’Anjou ne rendit pas sa langue moins habile…
Agnès and René Mosse live and work in the village of Saint-Lambert-du-Lattay, in the Coteaux-du-Layon area of Anjou.
The Layon is a small tributary to the Loire that lazily digs its way through well exposed and drained hills of schist and
sandstone. Its micro-climate allows for a long hang-time, and when the mornings are foggy in the fall, with no rain,
botrytis develops easily on the Chenin grapes.
Previously, the Mosses had owned a wine-bar/wine retail in Tours, and they credit the great vignerons they met there,
among them Jo Pithon and François Chidaine, as the impetus to become winemakers. They studied viticulture and
oenology at the agricultural lycée in Amboise where two of their teachers were Thierry Puzelat (Clos du Tue Boeuf) and
Christian Chaussard (Domaine le Briseau).
They spent two years working in Côte-de-Beaune, then bought the estate in St-Lambert in 1999. They work 13ha of
vines, most of them planted with Chenin blanc (nine ha), and Cabernets franc and sauvignon (three ha), the rest is
planted with Gamay, Chardonnay, Grolleau Gris and Noir.
They adopted organic viticulture techniques from the start, ploughing between and under the rows, and use biodynamic
preparations to treat the vines and soil. In their area of Anjou Noir (Black Anjou, so called because of the dark colour of
the soils of slate and volcanic rocks), the soils are shallow, with subsoils of schist and sandstone, and varying amounts
of clay on the surface.
With all the efforts put into vineyard work, it is equally important to them to vinify in a natural fashion, and they are
particularly attentive to minimizing manipulations and the use of sulphur. All the wines are barrel-fermented and aged,
and usually the whites go through their malolactic fermentation. The barrels are renewed as needed: they are
containers, not oak flavour providers.
The Anjou Blanc sec is from young selection massale Chenin vines planted in 2001 & 2002 grown on clay and gravel
soils alternating with schist. Yields in this vintage were less than 15hl/ha and harvest was done by hand with selection
(tri) of grapes. Vinification is slow, malo takes place in barrels and the wine spends a further year in them before
secondary nutty aromatics and layer after layer of rich flavour.
The Bonnes Blanches is a 2.5ha parcel of thirty-five year old vines on a special terroir of sandstone with a subsoil of
Ample, mineral, long in the mouth this wine has profound texture.
and gorgeous pineapple acidity.
Arena is a Savennières sourced from 0.45 hectares of vines planted in 2002 on soils of wind-blown sands and schist near the
Moulin de Beaupréau. The vines only came into the ownership of Agnès and René in 2007, after they purchased the land from
Eric Morgat. As is the case with Anjou, the fruit here is hand-picked and the fermentation en fût with 12 months elevage
topping up once a week. Rich and acacia-honeyed with a dried-fruit (apricot and quince) character yet seemingly defined and
lively too, Arena is quite youthful at the moment with a somewhat muted palate – albeit one with plenty of substance and
would benefit from spending half an hour in a carafe. The warmth of 2009 manifests itself in the 9.3 g/l residual sugar. Try
with ris de veau, grilled sea bass and certain cheeses.
Summer’s ready and the mousse is on the loose, specifically the Moussamoussettes, a delightful sparklingrosé made from a
blend of Grolleau Gris and Gamay. Yields are low (25 hl/ha) with strict triage and initial fermentation is in a mixture of vats
and barrels. The wine is gently sparkling with framboise, cherry and rhubarb; it is fresh, soft and lively in the mouth, joyously
VIN DE FRANCE MOUSSAMOUSSETTES PET NAT ROSE (2016)
ANJOU BLANC INITIALS BB
- 109 -
ATTENTION CHENIN MECHANT
VIN DE FRANCE CHENIN – Keykeg – 20 litres
ANJOU BLANC “CLOS LES TREILLES”
ANJOU ROUGE “POMPOIS”
SYLVIE AUGEREAU, Anjou – Organic
VIN DE FRANCE PEAUX CHENIN
VIN DE FRANCE REJOUISSANCES
LA COULEE D’AMBROSIA, JEAN-FRANCOIS CHENE, Anjou
A 4 ha estate on limestone clay soils with schists and silex in Beaulieu sur Layon, practising and certified for organic
viticulture since 2005. Now Jean-François is well along on the road to biodynamics. He specialises in Chenin in all
shapes and sizes and loves to make a “Jura-style” wine under a yeast veil. Paniers des Fruits is his lovely user-
friendly, basket-of-fruit-wine, a flavoursome apple compote wine for easy-drinking.
You might stare into the crud-rich opalescent depths of the wine and say Chenin Voile? More like Chenin Vile. There is a lot
of something in suspension, a soot snowstorm in this murky, muzzy, membranous “white” (ironic inverted commas).
O2 is more than a nod and a wink, (Jean François nods and winks a lot) to the wines of the Jura that he admires so greatly.
He has a seraglio of Chenin that has taken the veil, ageing for approximately three years under those cheesy yeasts. The
initial aroma is not altogether pleasant – butter on the turn and smoking corn on the cob mixed with oxidative notes. Carafed,
the wine begins its subtle transformation, shedding noxious aromas and releasing hints of fruit – here are apples, slivers of
toasted almonds and dried spice. Those sly salty Jurassic flavours come to the fore and the acidity reins in the funkiness. This
is either a food accompanier, Comté, or a goat’s cheese, or a gentle sipper, something to get down and meditative with, one of
those wines that evolves as you revolve it around the glass. Yes, this O2 may not be your favourite Chenin network, but it
certainly connects to your inner yeast. Jardin de Chiron is named after the centaur, in Greek mythology, who discovered the
use of plants for medicine. Like all his white wines this Chenin is fermented in futs de chêne with wild yeasts with temperature
control. The entire vinification takes twenty-four months and the wine spends a total of three years in barrels without topping
up. Crazy as a soup sandwich. Les Joues Rouges is a nod and a wink to Anjou rouge but Jean-François opted out of
appellation when the board asked him to add sulphur in his wines for stability. This cheeky wine, from 60 year old Cab Franc
vines, is whole bunch fermented at coolish temperature to bring out the latent fruitiness. A pleasure wine. Pedro Rabernet,
also deriving from old Cab Franc vines is a massive knowing blink at Pedro Ximenez style of sherry. The grapes are raisined
on mats until Christmas: aromas of roasting, prunes and candied figs and a thick, creamy intense palate. Back to Chenin and
a couple of amazing late harvest wines. Douceur Angevine is from late harvest grapes and has gentle fresh and apple compote
flavours with a suggestion of honey and caramel, whilst Le Clos des Ortinières is from botrytis grapes vinified and aged in
barriques for thirty-six months without any further interventions. The wine is fine and complex with a broad palette of
apricots, quince and confit fruits.
PANIER DE FRUITS
L’O2 VIGNE CHENIN VOILE
JARDIN DE CHIRON
LES JOUES ROUGES
BOIT SANS SOIF
PEDRO RABERNET – 50cl
- 110 -
Saumur loving had me a blast
Saumur loving happened so fast
Found a Chenin crazy for it
Met a grower he was so very fit
Saumur days drifting away to oh oh the Saumur nights
DOMAINE DES ROCHES NEUVES, THIERRY GERMAIN, Saumur-Champigny – Biodynamic
Serious wines are produced at this estate run by the charismatic Thierry Germain. His approach is closer to a Burgundy
wine-maker than a typical Loire producer. This 50-acre domaine, situated in a superb viticultural location in the appellation
of Saumur Champigny, has been a winery since 1850. Germain, from a long line of Bordeaux winemakers, arrived here in
1991, attracted by the region’s perfect balance of grape varietal, climate and terroir, which he considers one of the finest in
France. The vineyard is worked in a natural way with the goal of keeping the vine and the soil at its healthiest and Thierry
has become a fully-fledged advocate of biodynamics. The harvest is manual, selecting grapes at their very ripest level.
Vinification is handled in small batches with bottling unfined and unfiltered. Germain has garnered praise in the European
press for his exciting wines, which are always filled with ripe, generous fruit and supple textures. Painstaking attention to
detail: the grapes are selected at optimum maturity to create suave, velvety, plump wines. The basic Cuvée Domaine is garnet
with purple tints, exhibits lively aromas of irises, violets and red fruits, a balanced and ripe palate, harmonious and full and a
smoky finish with subtle tannins. Disregard a label so loud it could be heard in Timbuktu. The Cuvée Marginale is a selection
of the best grapes (tiny yields of 25hl/ha) put into barriques neuves, a felicitous amalgam of Bordeaux and Loire styles. The
vines for the Marginale are situated on the superb clayey-limestone soil of Fosse de Chaintrés. This cuvée is only made in the
best years when the grapes achieve a minimum of 13 degrees alcohol. Yields for the Marginale are a miniscule 25hl/ha; the
grapes are macerated for 30-35 days, then the wine is placed in new oak to undergo malolactic fermentation. It will mature
for 18-24 months depending on the vintage. The Terres Chaudes, from organically cultivated grapes grown on the unique
tufa-rich soil (sandy clay and clayey limestone soils that suit wines with deep root systems), is as seductive as the swish of a
silken kimono. Yields are a mere 35hl/ha.
The grapes macerate for 25 days before undergoing malolactic fermentation.
Half the wine is matured in barrels that have been used before, the other half is kept in stainless steel. It is bottled twelve
months later when the complexity of aroma is revealed and the tannins have balanced out.
Saumur-Champigny Terres Chaudes More powerful than the Cuvée Domaine, this wine could easily age several years. The
colour is dark-ruby, with purple highlights. The bouquet is marked by cassis and blackberries. The palate is dense, with fat
fruit, a beautiful structure and fine, ripe tannins. A happy future for this wine which is beautifully balanced in nose and
Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Marginale “This wine is always held back for a year and only made in exceptional vintages. It is
produced from the ripest grapes at harvest and aged in new barrels (400 litre). Very concentrated, it merits an ageing of 5
years.” The yield for this intense wine is only 25 hectolitres/hectare coming from southern-exposed hillside vineyards. This
grand wine is powerful yet elegant, structured like a top Bordeaux.
L’Insolite is from a plot of vines some 85 years old, grown on clayey-limestone with sandstone and flint subsoil. The grapes
are harvested in several picking sessions according to ripeness (three selections (tri) in the vineyard, with the last pass being
only nobly rotten grapes), and yields no more than 18hl/ha. Organic work is done on the soil with special tisanes. Fermented
in 12 hl oval foudre to accentuate minerality for 4 months. Aged on the fine lees for 12 months with batonnage
very attractive, full of pears, pineapple and honey. There is incredible vitality on the palate with perfect balancing acidity.
The wine is paean to Chenin Blanc, a snapdragon on an anvil, and drinking it will give your goosebumps goosebumps. After
a couple of hours in the carafe drink it with lobster in sauce, sea bass steamed with ginger and/or gourmet Chinese food.
Every year we see an evolution in Thierry’s wines. They possess finer bone structure and less obvious oak influence, they
challenge the palate with their energy. This is the move to natural winemaking.
SAUMUR BLANC “L’INSOLITE”
SAUMUR BLANC “CLOS ROMAINS”
SAUMUR BLANC “TERRES” BLANC
SAUMUR BLANC “LES MEMOIRES”
SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY “TERRES CHAUDES”
SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY “LA MARGINALE”
SAUMUR-CHAMPIGNY “FRANC DE PIED”
OUTRE TERRE ROUGE
- 111 -
Download 6.21 Mb.
Do'stlaringiz bilan baham:
ma'muriyatiga murojaat qiling