Domaine le roc des anges, roussillon
DOMAINE DANIEL DUGOIS, Arbois
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- DOMAINE MICHEL GAHIER, Arbois – Organic
- DOMAINE BRUNO LUPIN, Savoie
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DOMAINE DANIEL DUGOIS, Arbois Garnet coloured with an expressive bouquet, this Trousseau is both delicate and elegant, musky on the nose with attractive tannins. Morello cherry, spices, blackberry jostle for attention on the palate and there is an edge of pinesap which makes this very appealing. Try with wild boar or venison. The Savagnin tastes of bruised apples, fresh walnut, vanilla and caramel. Watch out also for amazing aromas of fresh curry powder with fenugreek to the fore. It is a baby vin jaune with a highly developed style. For those of you who like to push the pedal to the flor. The vin jaune is probably a bit of an infant itself, having only just emerged from its yeasty veil. These yellow wines will go well with foie gras, chicken with morels, trout with almonds and various cheeses.
2013 ARBOIS SAVAGNIN W
2008 ARBOIS VIN JAUNE – 62cl Yellow
ARBOIS TROUSSEAU “CUVEE GREVILLIERE” R
For a generation Michel Gahier and his family have been quietly working with some of the region’s most sought after terroirs. Like a growing number of producers in the Jura he had decided to make vin naturel rather than a homogenized, uniform style of wine as he feels it’s the best way to express his grapes and land. Gahier is blessed to work with some great parcels of old vines from vineyard sites that inspire local legend. From the vineyard site “Grand Vergers” comes some of the Jura’s finest Trousseaus. The soils are heavier clay over limestone, not unlike those in a 1er cru of Burgundy, yet different from the blue marls of Pupillin that better suite Ploussard vines. Gahier’s wines are aged in a combination of acacia and American oak barrels with very little sulphur addition. Gahier is a disciple of Jacques Puffeney, and Michel is not only his neighbour, but was also Jacques’ pupil for a number of years. Trousseau is an old grape variety that is also known as Bastardo and possibly Merencao in Ribera Sacra; it is also used in the production of Port, but in the Jura, the wines produced from it tend to be lively, fresh, nervy and gorgeously complex when made by a sympathetic vigneron! Vineyard location undoubtedly contributes to the complexity of the wines. Located in and around the village of Montigny-les-Arsures, just outside of Arbois, the vines are planted on the particular graviers gras soils, perfectly suited to the Trousseau grape. Having been planted over 80 years ago. Grands Vergers is named after the lieu dit (parcel of land) where the vines grow. This is a very, very good example of a Trousseau wine having the delicacy that we associate with this fragile grape but also an extraordinary depth of flavour and a complexity that is intriguing. The classic Trousseau nose is understated, but emerges in its own good time to convey notes of pomegranate, cherry, autumn leaf and complex spice –almost Burgundy-like – but a bit more angular and masculine. The palate is where the magic happens, as this is one of those wines that just snaps, crackles and pops on the palate. Red fruit galore, floral notes, liquid rock and so much more… We invite you to inspect our Clouzot, or inspect our Clouzot Trousseau, a glou-glou version of this grape. La Fauquette vineyard is close to Michel’s house. This is a ‘sous voile’ Chardonnay. This means that the barrel in which it matures is not topped up as with the other two white cuvées. Instead, as the wine evaporates through the pores of the barrel a thin veil (voile) of yeast forms on the surface of the wine and this protects the wine from excessive oxidation. The oxygen that does penetrate the veil causes it to develop an exciting nutty spiciness that is incredibly appealing. Offering an astonishing nose of ripe golden apple, aged calvados and sun-dried fruit the mouth is opulent, buttery, full, silky, dense, powerful and full of what someone described as umami. Uvavu! Get out the Comte. The grapes for Les Crets are sourced from a hilltop vineyard (Les Crets meaning “crest of the hill”) where the Chardonnay has been grafted onto the rootstock of the local grape variety known as “Melon Queue Rouge”. The wine is aged for about fifteen months in large foudre and is then racked into the smaller format (600 litre) demi-muid for another year of elevage. 2015
CHARDONNAY “LES FOLLASSES” W
2013 CHARDONNAY “LES CRETS” W
CHARDONNAY FAUQUETTE SOUS VOILE W
2015 TROUSSEAU “LE CLOUSOT” R
TROUSSEAU “GRANDS VERGERS” R
2015 TROUSSEAU “LA VIGNE DU LOUS” R
TROUSSEAU “BERENGER” - magnum R
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DOMAINE DE SAINT-PIERRE, FABRICE DODANE, Arbois - Organic Fabrice joined this estate in 1989 and began conversion to organic farming in 2002. He also works biodynamically. The wines are more modern in style than many of our offerings in Jura, particularly the Pinot Noirs which are fruit-forward in style. Les Corvées comes from a co-planted vineyard and is a terrific wine. The Chardonnay is fermented and aged in barrels – Burgundian in style. All the reds are made without the addition of sulphur. 2015
CHARDONNAY LES BRULEES W
2008 VIN JAUNE – 62cl Yellow
PINOT NOIR LA GAUDRETTE R
2015 PINOT NOIR LA GAUDRETTE – magnum R
PINOT NOIR ST PIERRE R
2015 POULSARD PINOT LES CORVEES R
DOMAINE DES CAVARODES, ETIENNE THIEBAUD, Arbois – Organic Run by young Etienne Thiébaud who is in his mid-twenties and has been making wine since 2007, Domaine des Cavarodes comprises five hectares on mainly Kimmeridgean chalk and clay with some limestone and marl in the northern part of the Jura region. Etienne is a true artisan currently working organically but is currently in conversion to full biodynamics. He uses herbal teas and vineyard activity is determined by lunar calendar. He is working with fantastic material; some of the vines are ungrafted and over 100 years old. His philosophy is to make wine with as little intervention as possible. Etienne makes his version of J’en veux!!! (see Ganevat) which is a living archive of vestigial pre-phylloxera varieties. This Vin de Pays de Franche-Comte is a blend of 1/3 Pinot Noir, 1/3 Trousseau and the remainder a melange of Gamay, Poulsard, Pinot Meunier, Argant, Portugais bleu, Enfariné, Mézy...! Vinification is semi-carbonic and there is a ten month elevage in old barrels. The fruit has a veritable crunch think slightly sour griotte cherries, rustic, yet seductive tannins. The Savagnin Pressé relies on beautiful grapes. Fermentation and elevage sur lie in vat for twelve months then a further two to three months in old fûts (topping up) so that the wine has a chance to settle. Sulphur is only added at bottling for stability. The result captures the essential nobility of the Savagnin grape with an ensemble of lovely pear, apricot and gentian aromas adding colour and tone to a palate of remarkable persistence. The Poulsard is a shimmering ruby, pepper and red fruits on the nose, supple in the mouth, whilst the Trousseau is more muscular and musky yet still possesses plenty of finesse. 2012
CHARDONNAY “MESSAGELIN” W
2015 CHARDONNAY “GUILLE BOUTON” W
CHARDONNAY LUMACHELLES W
2014 SAVAGNIN PRESSE W
SAVAGNIN OSTREA VIRGULA W
2009 VIN JAUNE W
TROUSSEAU “MESSAGELIN” R
2015 POULSARD DE CHEMENOT R
IGP FRANCE COMTE ROUGE R
2015 TROUSSEAU LUMACHELLES R
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2015
CHARDONNAY “LES GAUDRETTES” W
2012 SAVAGNIN OUILLE “LES CHASSAGNES” W
POULSARD POINT BARRE R
2014 POULSARD POINT BARRE - magnum R
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DOMAINE DE LA BORDE, JULIEN MARESCHAL, Arbois – Biodynamic Julien Mareschal is one of the only people to make wine in the Côte de Caillot, right outside of Pupillin. He works organically and has been in conversion to biodynamics since 2012. Each of his wines has a vineyard name. Proportionately, he has a lot of Savagnin, almost 50% of his vineyard holdings, grown on grey marls. His Savagnin called Foudre a Canon is ouille, fermented in foudres and bottled a little more than a year later. The Ploussard La Feule is made without any sulphur added at all; the other wines receive a small dose just at bottling. The Chardonnay is from a plot of 25 hectares of 35-year-old vines planted in Bajocian limestone on the top of steep slopes at 450m in elevation. Julien crafts serious Chardonnay in the ouille style, showcasing the true terroir of the site. The wine ferments naturally with indigenous yeasts and is raised in old, 1200L barrels. .
2014 SAVAGNIN FOUDRE A CANON NATURE OUILLE W
2015 CHARDONNAY “CAILLOT” W
2007 VIN JAUNE W
PLOUSSARD BRUME CHAMBINES R
2014 PLOUSSARD “DE FEULE” R
PLOUSSARD “DE FEULE” – magnum R
2014 PINOT NOIR “SOUS DE LA ROCHE” R
TROUSSEAU “SOUS DE LA ROCHE” R
DOMAINE VILLET, GERALD & CHRISTIINE VILLET, Arbois - Organic Domaine Villet is a family estate that was started in 1900, and was converted to organic viticulture in 1988, making them one of the first estates in the region to do so. Gérard felt the results were better with organic agriculture, so he eliminated the use of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides, and synthetic fungicides, introducing the use of manure, compost and organic elements. Around the turn of the century, the only treatments used in the vineyard were copper (bouillie bordelaise) for mildew, and sulphur for oïdium. Since then, they have been minimizing the use of the copper and sulphur in the vineyard and relying instead on plant extracts, such as tea nettle, prêle (horsetail), willows, dandelions, and the like. Gérard believes firmly that vignerons must be working in the vines throughout the year in order to be attentive to the health of the vines and to reduce risks. He lets natural grasses grow but tills to limit proliferation. He only uses natural yeast in vinification, as he feels yeasts that are introduced are standardized and lead to a uniformity of taste, whereas natural yeasts allow the terroir to be fully expressed. Sulphur is used in moderation – typically 20 mg per litre. Lightly toasty upon opening, the Chardonnay eventually reveals aromas of baked apples and spice, with creamy lemon in the mid-palate, and white stone fruit in the finish. This is a richer Chardonnay, one that sits longer in the mouth, and lingers longer in the finish, but it is still marked by a pronounced mineral quality and sharp acidity that are a trademark of the Villet style. The Tradition rouge is a blend of Trousseau, Poulsard and Pinot Noir. Reds make up about a third of the total production at Domaine Villet, and their vines have seen some tough times in the past few years, so the tradition bottling is essentially the only red they bottle. It’s not as dense as a Trousseau, but the flavours are there, and it definitely has the bright tweak of a Poulsard and the red fruit and structure of a Pinot Noir 2009
ARBOIS CHARDONNAY W
1997 ARBOIS CHARDONNAY W
ARBOIS CUVEE TRADITION ROUGE R
2012 ARBOIS CUVEE TRADITION ROUGE R
- 149 - Rousseau -- Voltaire -- our Gibbon -- De Staël -- Leman! these names are worthy of thy shore, Thy shore of names like these! wert thou no more, Their memory thy remembrance would recall: To them thy banks were lovely as to all, But they have made them lovelier, for the lore Of mighty minds doth hallow in the core Of human hearts the ruin of a wall Where dwelt the wise and wondrous; but by thee How much more, Lake of Beauty! do we feel, In sweetly gliding o'er thy crystal sea, The wild glow of that not ungentle zeal, Which of the heirs of immortality Is proud, and makes the breath of glory real!
LES VIGNES DE PARADIS, DOMINIQUE LUCAS, BALLAISON, Haute-Savoie – Biodynamic Dominique Lucas is a 5 th generation Burgundy winemaker who started his domaine in the Haut Savoie in 2008. Today he has 10 hectares of vines, 2.5 of which are in Burgundy in the Haute Côte de Beaune, and in Pommard across from the Chateau. Harvest at Les Vignes de Paradis lasts an incredible 2.5 months. Chasselas needs a long time to get ripe! Dominique does five passes through each vineyard making sure that the grapes are ripe. Chasselas does not take the sun as easily as some other cépages, and most Chasselas is harvested grossly under ripe. We talked about how most Chasselas in the region is made: over-cropped and under-ripe, loaded up with sugar to attain a respectable degree of alcohol. I laughed when he commented: les camions du sucre sont infernaux! – spoken like a man who will never chaptalize. The overall terroir of the area is limestone with yellow marl, granite, and glacial morasses; Dominique farms 27 different parcels on various soil types, which he separates and raises in egg, barrel, or a combination of the two depending on the desired result. There are four appellations by Lac Léman, and they are all for Chasselas. And he plants Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Savagnin, and Petite Arvine, which are for the most part legal in IGP wines, but not in appellation wines. The Chasselas for the Marin is planted in granitic soils with glacial moraines lending it some of the most bitingly mineral-flavours and textures you will find a white wine. Restrained aromas of yellow under-ripe citrus fruit and a hint of honeysuckle rise from the glass. On the palate it opens with brilliant honey-tinged, tropical fruit and bright citrus that gives way to a rush of minerals that lasts seemingly forever. Un matin face au lac is from high parcels in a vineyard facing Lac Leman. 40 year old vines planted on silty-clay soils. The wine is naturally vinified in betons and amphora. It maintains a ravishing acidity and ample minerality like all of his wines, but seems a bit more open aromatically with hints of crème brülée, almond milk, and zesty lemon meringue. These luscious aromas coalesce once on the palate with more succulent citrus and sea minerals coming forward. Savagnin comes from young vines are very near the lake planted on silty soils. This tiny production is fermented in cement eggs and given a tiny dose of SO2 at bottling. The wine is more in the style of a Gringet, its weight given real verve by naturally bracing acidity.
2015 CHASSELAS C DE MARIN W
2015 CHASSELAS MATIN FACE AU LAC W
2015 IGP SAVAGNIN W
DOMAINE BRUNO LUPIN, Savoie Hills peep over hills Alps on Alps arise
sixteen villages in the Savoie, all of which have higher standards than those of the Vin de Savoie AC and Roussette de Savoie AC and may append their name to either of these appellations if their wines meet these higher criteria. One of the best of these crus is Frangy. The soils here are argillaceous limestone and glacial moraines and the exposure of the vines is south facing. As with many of the vineyards in this region the viticulture is lutteraisonnée. (Minimal use of chemicals, low yields, hand harvested) and the yields moderate (49hl/ha). In the winery some skin contact is allowed for richness of aroma with fermentation at 18-20c, followed by a natural settling of the must, lees contact, and eventual bottling in April the following year. The flavours are reminiscent of pear, gingerbread, spice and honey with a touch of nougat and the mouthfeel is soft, mellow and off dry. This would be splendid with river fish such as pike or perch, or veal escalope, or even the local Beaufort cheese. 2016
ROUSSETTE DE SAVOIE CRU FRANGY W
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TzU No 2 (Wine Joy) - Li Ching Chao
I have long remembered the pavilion on the stream the falling sun so deep in wine we did not know the way home how pleasure spent late returning the skiff thoughtless entered a lotus deep place and struggling through struggling through we scared up from the sand gulls and herons .
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